Loc: Zeroes
Crew: KK
& Daichi
Time: 0715-1015
Conditions:
3-4+ FT, low tide, overcast, clean, walled on the plus sets, crowded but mellow.
On Saturday night, I was done with getting
skunked. Still, I looked at the forecast, and the local surf just seemed too
unappealing. I tex’d Khang and asked where he was surfing in the morning. “No
idea,” he replied.
When I tex’d KK, he said he was going to
Zeroes. “Wanna roll?” he said.
I thought about it . . . surf a brand new
spot north of L.A.? How can’t I?
#
I told KK I’d be at his house by 0600, but
I sleep in until 0515. I can’t be late, I think to myself. I can’t be late
because I’m the asshole who’s always punctual, upset when people show up late
to load-up in my shit, and here I am being a hypocrite. I jam over to KK’s
house, park, and shoot him a text at 0559 which reads: I’m here.
Rick calls me up, says that he’s used up
all his “free passes” this week, and that he has to surf local to be close to
the family. Just then KK rides up on his skateboard. He holds out his hands
with his palms up, tilts his head and says, “Yo, what’s taking you?”
“What? Oh, sorry. I tex’d you when I got
here. I figured you were still asleep.”
“No. I saw you park. I waved. I thought you
saw me.”
I fumble for my sunblock and zip them in my
backpack. “My bad. I drove by your garage first. You weren’t there.”
I try to downgrade the tense moment by
going with the flow. We load up and head to Daichi’s house. He steps out as
soon as we pull up in his driveway. From there, we enjoy the ride north on PCH.
We pass Sunset; it’s clean. Two-to-three foot rights peel from the point, up to
the massing crowd of longboarders. Malibu’s the same. The spot that I thought
was Zeroes is way off. We park on the highway, completely different from what I
expect. Some other guys are already parked and changing. I feel their stares.
It makes me wonder if we’re gonna get singled out for being “outsiders.” I’m
surprised at the lot set up. Too bad it’s not a State Beach because if it was,
my parking pass would work here, but it looks like people have to pay for
parking, which I have no idea how much it costs.
From the parking lot, overlooking the
break, we can see some lefts breaking north of the main peak, but really,
everyone sits at the point. A local guy climbs up the steps to get past us. He
says, “Have fun, fellas.”
“Thanks,” we say.
I’m surprised at how hospitable this guy
is. The only other time this has happened to me has been at PV and Blacks. Down
on the sand, we see Roy from 26th come out the water to switch
boards. Years ago, back in my super Barney days, he mouthed off to me in the
lineup. I’ve never spoken to him since then, even though all of the DRC is
pretty cool with him. I’m a grudge holder, and I don’t forget, but . . . it
takes a lot of energy to hate someone, and everyone I surf with is cool with
him, so for the first time since the altercation I wave and lift my chin, a
universal sign for “Good day, mate.”
CROWDS:
I never liked crowds. I already know where
the best place to sit is, but I don’t want to sit there because it’s just too competitive.
On top of that, I’m a new sausage on the block. It’s obvious. These guys have
probably been surfing here for decades, and here I am, a new shit on the lawn. “KK,
I’m gonna sit wide,” I say, pointing just north of the pack.
I’m wearing Francis’ loaner 4/3 that he
gave me before he left. KK said that the water here’s colder, so I figured this
was the perfect opportunity to bust it out. Earlier as we were changing, Klaude
said, “Now your penis is touching where Francis’ penis was! Awwwwwww.”
I’m thigh deep when I feel water seeping in
from broken seals through the legs. “Fuck.” The water’s cold. “Motherfucker.” I
brace myself going under the next wave. Cold water chills the small of my back.
Sitting wide doesn’t work. Of course, KK
being the social butterfly that he is, paddles into the main crowd, talking to
some guys that he’s probably never talked to before.
There are those of us with an easy,
outgoing flow of energy to approach and be welcomed by strangers. Me? I can
only pull that off so much.
“What about over there?” I ask KK, pointing
south of the main peak, towards the rocks.
“It’s good over there, but the people over
here just drop in on you. The section’s actually a little hard to make.”
I figure that it’s better than catching
nothing, so I paddle through the lineup and share the spot with two other
antisocial guys.
PLETHORA:
Other people are riding longboards or
fishes, definitely meatier boards. The Tokoro feels light and chippy, so I
wonder how I’ll do this morning. I try to predict the waves, but the water is
so glassy that it reflects off the overcast sky, giving the illusion that the
water and sky are one. Waves approach the main peak, surfers scramble, and the
waves are so clean that they remind me of PV: clean and mooshy but fun.
I identify a bump in the distance, so I
paddle out to meet it, drop my chin on the deck, paddle and kick, and then I’m
in it. The section’s fast, and I lose the wave while failing at a floater (the
pros make it look so easy). Still, in the midst of a lull, it’s nice to catch something.
Back at the same spot, I catch another left. I pump and set up for one turn. A
guy on a red fish tries to go for it but backs out. Again, another wave comes
my way. It lines up well, but Red Fish purposely drops in on me this time. I
stay behind him, trimming the face just under the crumble just so he knows I’m here.
When the ride ends, we resurface next to each other, but I’m not pissed off at
all.
#
I don’t know how, but I get lucky. Even
when I surfed Santa Cruz for the first time with Al, I scored at “his” spot, so
I got a streak going for good sessions ant new places. More waves are coming my
way. I stick to my brother’s advice: paddle hard, kick, be aggressive, show
intention that you want the wave. His advice works. The other two guys give up
their priority on a couple waves because I’m stroking hard for them. I don’t
get any long rides, but I get a lot of single-shot, one-turners, still worth
their weight in stoke.
Before I change spots, I even catch a
right, leading me into the rocks. I keep an eye on the shallow water and still
crank out two backside carves before kicking out.
#
Things slow down, so I paddle back over by
KK, telling him that I’ve been getting lucky over there. I try the main peak,
but it’s too thick, so I sit on the south side of it. Some plus sized sets
start coming through, easily over four-feet, but the bigger waves have less
shape and are more on the walled side. A right comes my way, but some guy who
looks like Taylor Knox has priority, so I pass it up. I’m in position for the
second wave of the set, but two shortboarders and an old man on a longboard are
in my way, so I pull out. Taylor Knocks paddles by me, staring at me. Here it
comes, I’m thinking.
“Why didn’t you go?” he says.
“Oh, there were guys in my way.”
“You should’ve went.” He paddles further
out, looks back and continues. “That first one wasn’t that good. I didn’t go.
But yours . . . It was bowling. It was shaped better.”
“Yeah,” I smile aimlessly, “I don’t know.
Didn’t want to run anyone over.”
“Might as well go. They’re sitting there
like pile-ons, treat’m like it.”
#
Daichi sits towards the inside for most of
the session. I don’t even see him on a wave, but he tries to scratch for them.
I paddle back to KK and eventually sit north of the main peak where I first
started. Outside bombs start breaking way outside, forcing everyone to paddle
out for the duckdive. A wave starts to throw out, turning round and barreling
for just a moment. I get a left, but KK’s right behind me, working his way
closer, so I kick out.
Kind Snake:
Zeroes has potential. There’s no doubt in
my mind that it does. Clean, outside bombs keep pouring in, but I choose the
wrong ones. Mine close out or run away much too fast, but some guys get the
good ones and go all the way to shore. I scratch out multiple times, probably
because I’m growing tired, impatient, and frustrated that I’m missing this set.
Finally, I have a chance at position. I’m deep behind the shoulder, but I’m
racing for it, hoping to make the section. Some ripper is on my outside, going
for it too. I drop in and look up. The fucking guy is right there in front of
me. I feel like the section’s too fast and that I’d be left behind but then
again, maybe I can make it to the face. I never find out. The guy turns around
and sees me as the section closes on the both of us. I resurface pissed, but I
fight to stay positive. I don’t even know the guy, maybe he didn’t mean to do
it, and I probably couldn’t have made the section anyway.
He talks to Roy on the way back to the
lineup, saying, “By the time I saw that guy it was too late.”
I hear his splashing approaching.
“Sorry. I wouldn’t have gone on you, man.”
His eyebrows are raised with cheeks lowered, solemn.
“It’s cool.”
#
I can’t get a good ride to end the session,
so I take a closer. When I turn around, I see Roy speeding down the line on a
left, trimming and pumping. It’s a show of pure finesse. When he reaches the
sand, he complains that his last wave wasn’t that good. I’m dumbfounded because
it looked better than all of the waves I got this morning.
Courtesies are extended at the showers.
Surfers rush to get out the way and say, “Here you go, leaving the water still
running.”
Roy walks up to me and says, “Fun, yeah?”
“Yeah, yeah.”
After we’re done showering, Klaude notices
that Daichi forgets to shut the water off. Before leaving, he tells him to do
so.
#
At the van, Daichi searches around the van
for something. He says something to KK in Japanese. Someone stole his slippers.
We pass Malibu on the drive back. It’s
twice as packed as it was this morning and looks even smaller. Sunset looks
consistent, but there are even more people here. “Lucky we didn’t surf here,”
says KK. Yeah . . . he made the right call. “You guys wanna eat?” he asks.
“Yeah, I’m down.”
“I only got cash though.”
Klaude drove us to Zeroes without asking
for cash, so I say, “I got you. Just don’t order the lobster or the sashimi.”
It’s a toss-up between Japanese food, Norm’s,
or Rutt’s, so KK makes Daichi decide. He chooses Japanese. While we’re eating,
I break Daichi into some good old fashion American culture by showing him clips
of pregnant porn.
#
After the session, KK told me that I
brought good luck with me. Usually that’s not the case. Instead, a cloud of
skunk hovers over me wherever I surf. In fact, it takes someone like Francis’
positive energy to reverse my luck when surfing with other people. KK also
taught me the lesson of how having the right attitude in the water affects how
your session goes. I easily could’ve bitched about it being crowded, sat with
the main pack, and not have gotten any waves. Instead, I had “zero”
expectations, took initiative on sitting wide, and scored. It still blows me
away how clean this little surf spot is and how it wasn’t as crowded as Sunset
or Malibu when the surf was way better at Zeroes. It’s nice to get a good
impression of a new surf spot.
