Al came down from Norcal, so we decided to check out Porto with Shan in the afternoon. Despite the recent rain, Shan and I have been a little desperate for rain, and some shit infested bacteria wasn’t going to stop us. Porto was horrible. It was around one o’clock in the afternoon, the tide was low, and the wind was strong. We then got free parking at Manhattan Beach and walked to the pier. There were two paddle boarders out, and it looked a little better, but far from promising. The sun was out, and it was getting warm. It seemed like a good idea at the time, but we all were willing to get wet.
We hiked back up the hill to change, but when we came back the two SUP’s and the sun were gone, and the waves looked like they got smaller. Al was the only one in a wet suit. We paddled out just south of the pier. The waves were breaking really close to shore. The wind created choppy surf and unpredictable scattered peaks. We all got a couple waves, but none of quality. Every time I was on a wave I was already nearing the shore by the time I got my bearings. No one else was in the water at all. We looked like a bunch of idiots out there. We eventually paddled all the way next to the pier in hope to get some rights. This was the best part of the session. Even though the waves sucked, it filled me full of adrenaline to see the approaching waves building off of the pier, then eventually forming a right shoulder. The waves were getting a little bit bigger. I got one right off of the pier that opened up a little. Because the tide was low, the waves were fast. Right after I popped up, my board began to skip across the surface from all of the speed. I regained my composure and got a couple carves before I stepped off the rail. I tried the north side of the pier, and the shape was even shittier on that side.
I went back to the south side of the pier again, and Shan was heading back to his car. Al and I went for a suicide drop on a walled right that came in. Both of us got pitched over and obliterated simultaneously.
The session was over. Bacteria water trapped in my sinuses, we walked back to the car un stoked. Al kept asking me why I love this place, and how it’s possible that there are ever any waves here. The last time Al surfed the south bay was about this time last year, and that day wasn’t too great. Al has never seen the potential of this place. I told him that this place gets good … when it’s good.
Friday, October 22, 2010
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
HEAVY RAIN SESSIONS: TUE 10/19/2010
After yesterday I knew that I would have to give this morning a shot. Instead of getting up at the ass crack of dawn, I decided to get up at about 6:00 AM. I got free parking on 45th when it was still dark, so I couldn’t really tell what the waves were doing. I was already suited up when I got there, so I put some wax on my board, locked up the Outback, and I headed to the tower.
The glassiness of the water, plus the heavy overcast made it hard to see the horizon again, but after warming up I saw about three good peaks rolling in: the tanks, the tower, and south of 45th. I paddled out right in front of the tower. Getting to the line was easy. The peaks were coming in very consistent, and even though they were a little long and walled, the shoulders were close enough to chase down and paddle into.
There was thunder and lighting in the distance by Redondo and Torrance, and I was able to see the rain and moisture fill that distant sky. It was still dry at Porto, but a lot of people didn’t want to fare the weather, so there were just a small handful of guys out. I ran into this kid, Steven, that I met by the Jetty on the day that I cut my shin. He’s actually a local Westchester kid. Lucky for us that barely anyone was out. The parking lot was damn near empty.
I could see little patches of sky in the overcast, so I thought that I would be able to see some sun. It’s been forever since I got an open left, but I got this one that just felt awesome. I popped up early, drew a high line, and just pumped high up on the face as far as I could go. I didn’t set myself up that well for any spray, but I still tried and did a half ass tail slide.
It was hard to make out the waves in the distance. I had to count on the little bits of texture and the shadows it made to get any depth perception which seemed impossible. In that first hour of surfing, the rain started to come down hard. It was the first time that I surfed in hard rain with thunder and lightning not too far away. The texture in the water changed to being smooth and splashy, and it made it even harder to tell what was rideable or not. Either way, that didn’t stop me from catching some waves. I was able to go back side and practice some snaps. The shape wasn’t perfect, but it was good, and it was so worth being in the rain to get it. I was going back side on a wave, and another guy was watching me while debating whether or not to paddle into it. I bottom turned, went back up the wave, and let out some spray when I hit the lip. … He didn’t drop in on me.
The rain stopped, and the sun rays finally poked through a hole in the overcast. It was the first time that I’ve seen the sun's rays in days. I was able to see them in the distance over Santa Monica, and there was even a fucking rainbow over by the jetty. Then next thing you know, it started fucking raining again. It was almost 9:00 AM, and I wanted to go for my last wave of the day, but something happened that made the surf funky. Blame it on the tide, the waves became inconsistent with a long wait for a set. I caught my last wave and made it back up the hill.
I’ve learned that as we progress in surfing we are looking for more than just popping up and going straight, and we are looking for more than just surviving a steep drop. We need good shape and decent size to help refine our carving which will eventually lead to maneuvers and tricks which will define our very own styles of surfing. This session helped me work on my progression. I was blessed with good shape this morning. I hope there will be more to come.
The glassiness of the water, plus the heavy overcast made it hard to see the horizon again, but after warming up I saw about three good peaks rolling in: the tanks, the tower, and south of 45th. I paddled out right in front of the tower. Getting to the line was easy. The peaks were coming in very consistent, and even though they were a little long and walled, the shoulders were close enough to chase down and paddle into.
There was thunder and lighting in the distance by Redondo and Torrance, and I was able to see the rain and moisture fill that distant sky. It was still dry at Porto, but a lot of people didn’t want to fare the weather, so there were just a small handful of guys out. I ran into this kid, Steven, that I met by the Jetty on the day that I cut my shin. He’s actually a local Westchester kid. Lucky for us that barely anyone was out. The parking lot was damn near empty.
I could see little patches of sky in the overcast, so I thought that I would be able to see some sun. It’s been forever since I got an open left, but I got this one that just felt awesome. I popped up early, drew a high line, and just pumped high up on the face as far as I could go. I didn’t set myself up that well for any spray, but I still tried and did a half ass tail slide.
It was hard to make out the waves in the distance. I had to count on the little bits of texture and the shadows it made to get any depth perception which seemed impossible. In that first hour of surfing, the rain started to come down hard. It was the first time that I surfed in hard rain with thunder and lightning not too far away. The texture in the water changed to being smooth and splashy, and it made it even harder to tell what was rideable or not. Either way, that didn’t stop me from catching some waves. I was able to go back side and practice some snaps. The shape wasn’t perfect, but it was good, and it was so worth being in the rain to get it. I was going back side on a wave, and another guy was watching me while debating whether or not to paddle into it. I bottom turned, went back up the wave, and let out some spray when I hit the lip. … He didn’t drop in on me.
The rain stopped, and the sun rays finally poked through a hole in the overcast. It was the first time that I’ve seen the sun's rays in days. I was able to see them in the distance over Santa Monica, and there was even a fucking rainbow over by the jetty. Then next thing you know, it started fucking raining again. It was almost 9:00 AM, and I wanted to go for my last wave of the day, but something happened that made the surf funky. Blame it on the tide, the waves became inconsistent with a long wait for a set. I caught my last wave and made it back up the hill.
I’ve learned that as we progress in surfing we are looking for more than just popping up and going straight, and we are looking for more than just surviving a steep drop. We need good shape and decent size to help refine our carving which will eventually lead to maneuvers and tricks which will define our very own styles of surfing. This session helped me work on my progression. I was blessed with good shape this morning. I hope there will be more to come.
SOMETHING GOOD ON THE WAY: MON 10/18/2010
I had to let Klaude and Jon down on Sunday because I had very pressing matters to address at home. It was also raining, and the surf has been so horrible, that it was a small sacrifice to miss out on the shitty waves. I told Jon and Klaude that I’d make it up to them later.
On Monday, early evening, I decided to give El Porto a shot. I got metered parking, and there were two hours and seven minutes on the meter. I later learned that the meter was actually stuck on that time. The waves looked a little crumbly, but there were two peaks working: the one in front of 45th and just south of that. Despite the crumble, there were some fast shoulders that looked promising if you could catch the wave on the right spot.
I duck dived through some sets that come through on the way to the line up. I already knew that the conditions were better than what I’ve seen in over a week. A couple waves opened up for me, and I was able to get a little back hand spray on a couple waves. However, the canvas wasn’t perfect to carve or do anything pretty. It was one of those sessions where you didn’t want to make the wave more than it really was. I would’ve been better off just going down the line.
The best part of the session was that I saw the sun rays out in the distance where it was setting. It was like looking at a still painting in the horizon with all the clouds, blue sky, and ocean. At about 5:45 PM the waves stop coming, and I paddled in on my own. Regardless, I had more fun this session than I have in over a week.
On Monday, early evening, I decided to give El Porto a shot. I got metered parking, and there were two hours and seven minutes on the meter. I later learned that the meter was actually stuck on that time. The waves looked a little crumbly, but there were two peaks working: the one in front of 45th and just south of that. Despite the crumble, there were some fast shoulders that looked promising if you could catch the wave on the right spot.
I duck dived through some sets that come through on the way to the line up. I already knew that the conditions were better than what I’ve seen in over a week. A couple waves opened up for me, and I was able to get a little back hand spray on a couple waves. However, the canvas wasn’t perfect to carve or do anything pretty. It was one of those sessions where you didn’t want to make the wave more than it really was. I would’ve been better off just going down the line.
The best part of the session was that I saw the sun rays out in the distance where it was setting. It was like looking at a still painting in the horizon with all the clouds, blue sky, and ocean. At about 5:45 PM the waves stop coming, and I paddled in on my own. Regardless, I had more fun this session than I have in over a week.
Sunday, October 17, 2010
THE GREAT DEPRESSION PART IV- DEPRESSION SESSIONS: SAT 10/16/2010
I can’t remember the last time when there was shitty surf for almost a week straight. I got free parking on Highland Ave. at the butt crack of dawn. It was a wet morning. I didn’t expect many people to be out, but there was still a good crowd of surfers trying to get theirs. I paddled out before 0700 caught nothing but close outs. Klaude and Dais showed up, maybe an hour later. I was hoping that the presence of good friends and good company would bring some good luck waves our way. Well, it was an equally frustrating morning for all of us.
It was gloomy, and there weren’t any waves that came our way with any shape. We saw guys south of us getting barreled on the fast waves, but they were so fast that no one made it out of the barrel. These conditions are putting me in a weird funk. I think I’m actually taking a break from surfing. Maybe I need to just walk away, give the ocean its time, then come back and see if she is ready to give me some good waves.
It was gloomy, and there weren’t any waves that came our way with any shape. We saw guys south of us getting barreled on the fast waves, but they were so fast that no one made it out of the barrel. These conditions are putting me in a weird funk. I think I’m actually taking a break from surfing. Maybe I need to just walk away, give the ocean its time, then come back and see if she is ready to give me some good waves.
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