I had to let Klaude and Jon down on Sunday because I had very pressing matters to address at home. It was also raining, and the surf has been so horrible, that it was a small sacrifice to miss out on the shitty waves. I told Jon and Klaude that I’d make it up to them later.
On Monday, early evening, I decided to give El Porto a shot. I got metered parking, and there were two hours and seven minutes on the meter. I later learned that the meter was actually stuck on that time. The waves looked a little crumbly, but there were two peaks working: the one in front of 45th and just south of that. Despite the crumble, there were some fast shoulders that looked promising if you could catch the wave on the right spot.
I duck dived through some sets that come through on the way to the line up. I already knew that the conditions were better than what I’ve seen in over a week. A couple waves opened up for me, and I was able to get a little back hand spray on a couple waves. However, the canvas wasn’t perfect to carve or do anything pretty. It was one of those sessions where you didn’t want to make the wave more than it really was. I would’ve been better off just going down the line.
The best part of the session was that I saw the sun rays out in the distance where it was setting. It was like looking at a still painting in the horizon with all the clouds, blue sky, and ocean. At about 5:45 PM the waves stop coming, and I paddled in on my own. Regardless, I had more fun this session than I have in over a week.
No comments:
Post a Comment