2017 – 6 End of Storm Streak 10JAN

Klaude had checked the surf around first light and said it as too swampy. Figures, since the tide swing was so high. So when I got off of work, I could have called it a lay day and maybe went to the gym, but the cams looked worth a look in person. On the way there, I saw surfers out at Shitpipe, and waves were breaking on the inside. At Hammerland, a lone surfer sat on the left. More surf signs appeared as I approached 45^th through Chevron’s wired fence. Yes it was overcast and lightly drizzling, but fuck it. Why not paddle out?

Reaching the sand I saw the surf was much smaller than the day before, but it was still worthy. Instead of walled lines the sections were makeable with shape, a few even offering some almond slots.

With a light, I paddled out north of 45^th to sit in between two surfers. At first I got the looks casting me as an invasive prick, but I maneuvered around them and never got in the way, showing etiquette and sharing. Whenever I took a wave, it was because I either had priority or no one else was in position.

Since I let Klaude reclaim his center find from the Futures he let me borrow, I surfed on the quads once more. The surf was more spilling and rippable than hollow, and I was pleasantly surprised with how the quads felt. With the extra speed, I rode out of my layback carves with more fluidity and ease. What a huge difference speed makes for maneuvers. Also, I’m realizing that since my Puddle Jumper isn’t made for performance, it never did offer the kind of surfing for critical maneuvers. I realize that now after looking at my surf stats speedwise. While my other buddies were posting faster MPH, I was getting more waves and turns because my board is more of a fun shape that’s meant to be a wave-catching magnet, especially in groveler conditions. But…the quads really did help me go faster.

A few waves did offer tiny barrels, but I didn’t perform well on these. I missed a slotting left by not putting in that one extra stroke to get in it, a lesson that my brother had lectured me on years ago. I was just so focused on what I was planning to do once I dropped in instead of being in the moment. Bad move, but all I could do was smile. I’m so blessed to live in El Segundo and be near surf. It’s not Trestles, but when there is local surf, it’s kind of a local paradise. With my recent work shift that allows me these late-morning windows for a session, my quality of life has greatly increased. I can go on and on, but I’ll cut it short.

Riches indeed don’t need to be measured by money. At least right now, I can gladly say that I’m spending as much time as I can in the water, and that just makes me so happy.

2017-5 Storm Surf

I got off a wet morning at work and checked the cams during my shuttle ride home. My internet was spotty, but I could tell that there were waves at Porto and a few heads out. They say not to surf after a rain, but some stubborn surfers say that it's usually the first rains that are the worst for catching a case of the nasties.

When I showed up to Porto, the rain had already stopped, and before me were consistent, offshore, storm peaks. Surfline reported it at 2-3 FT, but it was easily an extra foot in the flesh.

I was stoked. I high-kneed my way through the shore towards the water. A pack sat on 42nd, but the waves were scattered as far as the pier and the jetty. I couldn't believe it was this good, and for as many people that were out there, the semi-vacant lot reflected a light weekday crowd.

I sat on 45th with another guy while the pack stayed south of me. Even though the surf was consistent, a lot of the waves ran away too fast. My first two waves of the sesh were my best, rights. I bottom turned and got two backhand hacks but later realized that I really should have pulled in on the right hollow shoulder. My next wave was bigger, the turns more critical, but I still questioned if I surfed it right.

More guys started to paddle over towards me, so I moved more north towards the rocks, and then a nice outside right came my way. I told myself I'd pull in, but I ended up barrel dodging because the wave was so big.

After beating myself up over it, I made a commitment to myself to pull in next time.

Over the last week, I've been rewatching a lot of tutorials on surf tips. One was about backside tube riding, grabbing the rail to steer and put yourself into the right position. Back in Indo, my brother has told me to “pig dog” and stall without further explanation.

On the next rights, that weren't complete closeouts, I grabbed rail and held my line, purposely trying to drive for as much distance as possible. As usual, I didn't make it out, but I felt like I was making better progress, like I was at least traveling a bit further.

I blew a left that looked like a small easy barrel. All I could do was laugh.

The sun broke through the clouds a few times, but the sky was mostly overcast. As the tide got lower, the surf started closing out more. I walked away not a victor but not completely defeated either.

2017-4

The surf was supposed to be better at 30th Street on the high tide, according to the homie Gary. Since I missed the first shift yesterday, I was more determined to dawn patrol this morning. I scored free parking without issue. 26th Street looked like it wasn't working yet, as the lines moving in only broke close to shore. When I finally put myself together, I humped towards 30th. I spotted Dave T, Garr, and Russ, all wearing hoodies and booties. I gave a casual wave and Russel retuned it, confirming or quartet was complete. Only 2 other guys joined. The lineup was still empty but without much worth.

When I paddled out, My wave of the day came right to me on my first attempt. It was an outside left that both Garr and Dave were in position for, but they kindly backed out for me. Since the peaks were long and lined up, the face started off slow but then stood up for some fast pumps. Unfortunately, that's about all I could do. I might have snuck in a cutty.

The rest of the session was okay. Much more inconsistent than yesterday, which made things really stale, especially when more people showed up. We all traded off on a couple waves, but it was a day that the stoke quota wouldn't be met.

On the way back to the wagon, I ran into some of the usual locals who were leaving. Roy was just waxing up his board, saying how it would get better once the tide dropped. Either way, I was turned off by the crowd, and would rather wait for the next weekday session, most likely at 45th Street where I have the best luck when I'm solo.

2017-3

I woke up with a hangover. Really unlike me. I'm not a young buck anymore. On top of that, the rain tapping my roof didn't help much to get out of bed either. I thought it'd be a lay day when I rolled out of bed around 8, but a glimpse out my window showed the rain had stopped. With the thought of the commitment I had made to Klaude flashing in the back of my mind, I prepped the water jugs.

26th St. Fuck it was crowded. Or should I saw crowded enough. More crowd than a weekday for sure. It was too easy to spot Klaude on his Puddle Jumper Lolli. All the regulars were there. I'm surprised I still have some local stripes here it's been so long.

Upon paddling out, I caught my best two waves right away, and then the competition got too tough. The waves weren't as peaky as the day before. The lines were really long, allowing he longboarders on the outside to get them first. It was an realization that I just catch so many more waves when I surf solo and on the weekdays.