I was at 26th St. when it was early and dark again. I warmed up by the pull up and exercise apparatuses, then I got to the sand at about 6:30 AM. The water was so glassy that it was hard to tell if there was a wave coming your way; there wasn’t even any texture anywhere. All I could barely make out was the gray horizon between the mirror images of gray sky and water. It was another overcast morning. I actually miss the sun.
It was about 2-3 feet, maybe 4 on the plus sets, but that didn’t even matter. Shape, there wasn’t good shape. Again, two, three days in a row now? A couple waves opened up a little, but not long enough. I still didn’t have a good wave to set me up for a snap. I saw some other guys getting some good rides. It was just frustrating being out there. I got some outside sets, but those just closed out.
I scored free parking, but I didn’t enjoy the fucking session. This is getting ridiculous. I don’t even care about having huge waves, I just want some fucking shape, some fun fucking waves!
Friday, October 15, 2010
THE GREAT DEPRESSION PART II: THUR 10/14/2010
I’m a surf fiend, or at least I’m turning into one. It’s pretty bad now. When I was at the gym I couldn’t help but think of being on a wave, a good wave, and how I just wanted that feeling, that rush. I rushed it to the beach at about 5:00 PM. I even scored free parking on 45th St. Even though the conditions were shitty, the rides were more enjoyable than the morning session. The sections were really long and crumbly, but if you caught it right on the shoulder, then there might be a small chance that the wave would open up for you. I ran into two officers that I was stationed with in Egypt, Lieutenants McGowan and Nelson. We bullshitted about the soldiers that we kept in touch with and what everyone is doing nowadays.
There were a couple rides that opened up a little, but not quite enough. The shape was still very poor. I wasn’t able to do any backhand snaps. Towards the end of the hour there was a long lull, and I didn’t even catch a wave in. Still unfulfilled, I walked back to my car.
There were a couple rides that opened up a little, but not quite enough. The shape was still very poor. I wasn’t able to do any backhand snaps. Towards the end of the hour there was a long lull, and I didn’t even catch a wave in. Still unfulfilled, I walked back to my car.
THE GREAT DEPRESSION PART I: THUR 10/14/2010
I wanted to try something different, and I wanted to get out of the water a little earlier, so I gave El Porto a shot. It was dark; 0600 is just way too early to paddle out now; it’s too dark. I paddled just north of 45th. When the sun came up I could see everything a lot more clearer, except that it was extremely overcast. This is going to be a short entry. Every wave that I caught didn’t have any shape and was a close out. It was frustrating. Unfulfilled, I left after about an hour and a half. As I was leaving I saw people just north of 45th getting some better shoulders. I was in the wrong spot.
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
AFTERNOON WAVES
I drove by at about 4:30 p.m., and it sucked. There was a lot of wind, so the water was choppy. It was about 3 ft. and crumbly. I watched the water for about a 1/2 hr., contemplating whether to jump in or not. I saw a couple guys get some good rides on a couple shoulders, but most people were riding close outs. Hopefully it will be better tomorrow.
THE ENDLESS CLOSEOUT: WED 10/13/2010
I’m going through an extremely difficult time in my life right now, but I’ll write this anyway. …
26th at 0630. It was dark, and a lot of high school students were on the shore ready to paddle out. I went a little further south of the tower in search of my own peak. The water was surprisingly warm and easy. From the shore it looked like there were a couple quick corners. The tide was a little low, but I expected it to get better, at least by the end of an hour.
There were 4 foot faces that were easy to paddle into, but they all came in as a walled oceanic mass that violently dumped onto the shallow bottom. As usual, I still paddled for them anyway. Despite my hopes of there being some good shape towards the end of the session, the closeouts continued. It was dangerous on the inside. It was so shallow that I got worked by the jaws-like waves while trying to paddle back to the line. I got pitched over the lip on a bunch of waves. I got rolled on the sand bottom, bonked my head on the sand, and even hit my board that was floating above me.
Shan met up with me, and we both agreed on the shitty conditions. “We need better sand bars,” he said. Well, last weekend 26th was really good, so I guess it’s just hit and miss some times. The sky was gray with no sunshine even when we left. I may check it out in the afternoon.
26th at 0630. It was dark, and a lot of high school students were on the shore ready to paddle out. I went a little further south of the tower in search of my own peak. The water was surprisingly warm and easy. From the shore it looked like there were a couple quick corners. The tide was a little low, but I expected it to get better, at least by the end of an hour.
There were 4 foot faces that were easy to paddle into, but they all came in as a walled oceanic mass that violently dumped onto the shallow bottom. As usual, I still paddled for them anyway. Despite my hopes of there being some good shape towards the end of the session, the closeouts continued. It was dangerous on the inside. It was so shallow that I got worked by the jaws-like waves while trying to paddle back to the line. I got pitched over the lip on a bunch of waves. I got rolled on the sand bottom, bonked my head on the sand, and even hit my board that was floating above me.
Shan met up with me, and we both agreed on the shitty conditions. “We need better sand bars,” he said. Well, last weekend 26th was really good, so I guess it’s just hit and miss some times. The sky was gray with no sunshine even when we left. I may check it out in the afternoon.
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