Bruh...so I did end up paddling out after the last post. I couldn't help myself. I was already having myself a loser day, being unproductive, and I wasn't in the mood to write, so I headed to El Porto for an afternoon session. Surprisingly, it was damn near offshore with just a light variable wind. It was a hot and humid day, and the water was crystal clear and glassy with a dropping tide. However, one major thing was missing...shape. Fuckin' A, I can't say it was flat, boring, or stagnant. In fact, the sets were pretty juicy and easily shoulder high. I don't know if it's just the south swell not hitting the South Bay right or bad sandbars, but, no matter how some waves looked like they had shoulders, they would just race and dump on the inside. I mean, straight up Dump Rider Crew status. Despite how printing the conditions were, it was hard to catch anything with a resemblance of a shoulder. Even the small in-between-set insiders were running away. My Beater, as fun as it is, can only do so much when the surf is closing out. But I was on a Beater, wasn't I, a fucking sponge. So I hit the "fuck-it button" and started going for glory. Yeah, I was going for everything--the bombs, the closeouts. It was nice knowing that I was on a board of no consequence to my weathered face. And even when I had to bail under the lip, sinking the Beater is no problem, but an awkward wipeout is still an awkward wipeout, so I had to take care not to break my neck on the sand.
My best wave was a right that actually stayed open, but of course some guy had to drop in on me. Then a chick dropped in on him and was like, "Oh, I'm so sorry!" And the dude was like, "No worries." Meanwhile, I'm thinking, Really? Where's the consideration for the first guy who got bagged?
Well, I don't want to be that guy who gets into fights in the lineup, but sometimes I feel like I'm justified to talk some shit. Yet, I'm was a surfing a purple Beater that has a unicorn and a rainbow on the bottom of it. I guess I wouldn't take anyone seriously who's on such a surf craft.
So now I'm sitting here at Churches, having been skunked during the choppy morning sesh. But upon returning from My breakfast at Sonic, I see that conditions have cleaned up. The wind has died and the chop is gone. Aside from a high tide, conditions are pristine. Now I just have to decide if I'm riding the Beater or Puddle Jumper.
I'm 40 years old, and I've been surfing consistently for about 15 years. I know that's not a lot; I was a late bloomer, but I'm still absolutely in love with it. I write this not for monetary gain or notoriety (like that would ever happen) but just to express my love for this art we call surfing (art not sport) and how I balance it in my everyday life. Welcome, I hope you find it enjoyable.
Thursday, September 22, 2016
Tuesday, September 20, 2016
Has to be More Than Just Waves
What do you really want out of
surfing? Catching waves can’t be your whole world because there are days when
there are no waves, or the waves suck, or the lineup is just too fucking
crowded to get one wave alone.
Yesterday morning I sat in the El
Porto parking lot, after already checking 26th and 33rd
Street, and had to have the internal debate on whether or not I’d be paddling
out or going back home. I had already looked at the Surfline cam before rolling
out of bed (and thank you, Surfline, for over hyping the forecast) and knew
that the surf sucked. Still, I was there looking at pretty decent energy rolling
into the South Bay but no shape at all to go along with it.
Making the dawn patrol takes some
commitment, doesn’t it? To wake up, pack a hot-water jug, load all your
equipment, and make that drive to the beach. It’s like packing for a short airplane
trip, but we never expect to come home without ever boarding the plane. These
dawn patrols take time, and when we don’t paddle out, it’s time we don’t get
back. We could’ve just stayed in bed and slept for an extra hour, worked on
that story or novel you’ve been meaning to finish, read, workout, or just do
whatever else you have to take care of during your precious time. TIME. My old
platoon sergeant used to say that there’s nothing more precious than a soldier’s
time.
Yesterday, I said fuck it and
paddled out with zero expectation, and as much as I’d like to set you up for a
feel-good post about surfing crap being better than not surfing at all, I’m not
going there. I knew the surf was shit, and it’s hard to turn a closeout into a
legit stoke. Yeah, the water felt nice, the sun was warm on my face, and I
could also hear the ripper in the lineup yell, “Fuck!” in frustration to every
closeout he got. Even on my Beater, I didn’t fare much better, catching 2
inside waves that actually had shape for a short distance. Yet, the decision I
made was conscious. All I wanted to do was get wet, and I got just that. A few
tiny waves as a bonus? Sure. But to me it was an hour worth spending, and when
I got home I still had time to do all my extra shit for the day.
On this very morning I made the same
dawn patrol but didn’t pull the trigger. What I want out of surfing wasn’t
there for me today, for just the activity of getting wet had already been satisfied
yesterday. This morning was even more gorgeous than yesterday: sunny, warm,
offshore, inviting, uncrowded but with the same lackluster shape. Sure, there
were plenty of guys out. I’m sure some got lucky and got decent rides, but the
overall wave-lotto odds weren’t good to begin with.
There
has to be a balance. If it’s crap, don’t force it, at least not two days in a
row. You need it that bad, set yourself up for a day trip; hit the road and go
where it’s firing. Or save yourself for when the dawn patrol actually works
out. It will eventually. When it does, surf your fucking brains out. There are
excuses not to surf when it’s crap, but none when it’s good in your backyard. That’s
when you’ve got to be on it. Hold yourself to that.
Catch Surf Beater Review
Why was it so hard to find a
legitimate review for one of these things online? For the most part, I either
found videos or websites just restating the summary of what the Catch Surf
Beater is made for, or just another repeat of specifications and dimensions. On
Youtube, I only found video of either pros shredding on them or amateurs doing their
best impressions of the pros. Regardless of now knowing for sure how these
Beaters ride, I still couldn’t help but buy one anyway.
What did I expect? I’m a sucker for
Kalani Robb’s videos getting barreled on a Beater in shorepounding beach break.
Other sponsored Catch Surf Pros also make the Beater look fun by doing airs and
360s on them. I became a little suspicious in how the ratio of good Beater
performance videos vs bad ones are out there, and now I know the reason.
During my first session out at my
local beachbreak, I was hit with a nasty reality check. In waist to chest high
consistent windswell, I was not Kalani-Robb like at all. If my weight was too
far back, I instantly sunk my Beater. Too far forward, instant purl. Timing was
an issue. I blew so many late takeoffs, even one with my mouth open, which
caused me to swallow a Manhattan Beach Martini. Even then, my first session on
this board was a long one, and even though I ate it terribly, it was the few
waves that I did make that gave me just enough stoke to want to stick with it.
In more detail, I got a punchy left where I was able to just pump and do a few
floaters all the way to the inside. It’s like, you can’t just pop up and pump
away to set yourself up like on a normal shortboard, but, if anything, the
Beater will just kind of go where the wave wants it to. You, as the
surfer/performer, must harness this energy and steer this thing in the best
line possible to get the best ride that you can.
Second session, I tried this thing
without fins on, and you can call me a barney, but, fuckin’ A, the Beater was
just too loose finless. I mean, I took it back out on a small ass day, local
again, and the board was sliding all crazy like while popping up. Even with I
did get up, the board just wanted to spin out. It was too hard. Reality check
number 2—I need the fins.
Third session is really what did it
for me. At tiny ass Churches in San Clemente, over a cobblestone point for the
first time, this board was absolutely fun in low tide, clean and peaky,
thigh-high surf. Actually riding waves with shape opened up the Beater to a
whole new realm of fun and stoke. I sat inside of the longboarders and was
catching all the waves that they didn’t want, for sure the shortboarders didn’t
give those waves so much as a glance, and yet there I was, going down the line,
making sections with pumps and floaters. On my backhand going right, I was able
to pump high and draw a highline all the way to the inside for long rides, even
getting away with partial hang fives.
The negatives so far about this board
is that, at least for an intermediate surfer, it’s really hard to turn. When I
say turn, I mean “turn” like how you would a standard shortboard. Forget about
putting the Beater on rail on the bottom turn to set up for a major hack. Trust
me, you will BURY the rail. Don’t even think about cutbacks. This piece of surf
craft does not work that way. Since that session at Churches, I’ve taken this
board out a few more times, and I’ve also realized that if the surf is big
enough for your regular shortboard, then you shouldn’t be on the Beater because
you’ll be shortchanging yourself. Why force the Beater to perform when your
other boards are waiting and meant for that better surf? I read a lot of
articles, people considering purchasing a Beater for travel in order to beat
the airline fees. Even I considered this at one point, but in reality, if you’re
traveling to a place with decent surf, you’ll be better off surfing a real
surfboard versus a Beater. Perhaps if you’re traveling somewhere where the surf
is small or crappy, it would be worth it, but that doesn’t even sound like a
surf trip to begin with. Who travels for crappy waves?
The positives about this board…it
can turn a shitty and small day fun. Even upon taking this board out on bigger
days, the rides that I got were so rewarding, even though I wasn’t getting any
legit turns or snaps. At Churches, for instance, small waves with a little bit
of shape are just absolute fun. While watching shortboarders trying to force
good rides and make their boards over perform what the conditions were actually
allowing, the Beater excelled by just getting down the line and doing fun
floaters. Also, in small waves, since the Beater itself is small, it makes the
wave feel bigger.
Things to adjust to…First off,
people will be giving you some awkward looks, especially if you have the model
I have with the unicorn and rainbows. Some locals I know asked if I was riding
my nephew’s board or something, and of course there were gay jokes. In the
lineup, heads will turn to see “what the hell is that guy riding”. Back to
turns, I’ve managed a few that I’d reclass in calling them “check snaps”
because you can’t just do a full legit arc on the face. Again, this board doesn’t
work like that. You’ll need to adjust your timing. If you’re too late, then you’re
pretty much bodyboarding the wave. If you do make the late drop, the pumping
mechanics on this board are different from a regular shortboard, so you’ll miss
the section. You have to get into the wave early and by all means not late at
all. Don’t expect this board to catch every single wave with ease. Remember, 54
inches is still not a lot of length to work with, so it won’t grab as many
waves as a Costco foamie, but catching small waves are still doable with good
paddling, positioning, and timing.
So is it worth it? To me,
absolutely, but with the clear realization that this is a novelty board that
should be used in sub-stellar conditions. On a shitty morning, if I can already
tell that I won’t so much as get a turn on my groveler, then I’m whipping out
the Beater. It at least gives me that new option quiverwise. For the first
time, I can pretty much paddle out even if the surf looks like shit and know I
have the right board for it, which means I can be in the water more than before
I made this investment. For a pic of my Beater, see my Instagram link.
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