Shan wanted to surf at Hammerland this morning. I wasn’t sure if he’d show up, so I told him I’d be at 26th. I had to go back, especially after yesterday morning. Cheryl said she would be there at eight o’clock, and Klaude said he’d come by to hang out at seven.
I got there early enough to park in the exact same place as yesterday. There was a bit of wind, and I expected it to make the surf funky. I sat in my car until there was more light out. Rick called me and told me that Porto was blown out, but he also said that his brother and some of his friends were at 26th. I met Rick’s bro, John, and his two friends, Dave and Mark, at the bottom of the hill. We paddled out right in front of the tower.
The surf was choppy, the tide was pretty high, and the sections were fast. There appeared to be some workable shoulders, but the speed of them would make them difficult rides. Some of the sets coming through were head high and bigger, so I had a rough time paddling out. It was also overcast, so I began to mentally defeat myself. Duckdiving was a bitch.
Once we got to the line we were able to get some messy corners. The first ones I got didn’t hold any shape. A plus set came, and I was in good position on the right shoulder, but the wave was too fast, and I was off balance trying to pop up with all that speed. I had one decent left where I was able to get a turn on it. My potential wave of the day was a left. As I bottom turned and came back up to carve the lip, John dropped in on me. I dropped in on him earlier, so it wasn’t a big deal, but his friends were laughing and agreed that “The Amadors” will snake you.
The inside. After each wave I dreaded the possibility of taking some sets on the head. I got lucky a couple times, but I mostly got worked. It started to get a little better because the wind started to die down a little bit. The three amigos got some pretty good rides. It was really humbling surfing with people better than me. I guess I’ve been surfing so much on my own that I began to believe that I was pretty good. I had a shitty session compared to those guys.
They decided to leave, but I wanted to end my session with one good wave. That short Asian chick was there again. She was talking to some dude that was next to me in the line up. I seen her earlier, ripping on some fuckin’ rights just north of us. A rogue wave came out of no where. I turned around to paddle for it, changed my mind, then I backed out a little too late and got sucked down. That was a little embarrassing, especially since my friends left I had no one to laugh about it with. I waited again. Another rogue wave came that was building far on the outside. I saw it before everyone else and duck dived under it. I have no idea how this wave ended up snagging me, but it did. It felt like I was doing back flips underneath the water, it was so confusing. When I popped up I didn’t even know which way the fucking shore was. Someone was on a wave right by me. Guess who it was? The fucking chick. She was on an overhead left just carving the shit out of it. She chose her line wisely, stayed on the open face, and turned to continue where it opened up again. That fucking bitch. Okay, she’s not a bitch. In fact, I’ve never spoken to her before, but I was fucking jealous. I said to myself, “How the fuck am I getting my fucking ass kicked so fucking bad, and yet this little chicky wicky over here is fuckin’ tearin’ it up!?” The answer was … because I still suck.
After that debacle I boned out. I turned to look at the sea. It definitely got better from when I paddled out. It wasn’t perfect, it was still choppy, and there was still a little wind, but the potential was still there for some fun rides. I was tired. My rotator cuffs were sore, and I was over it for the time being.
Klaude later called and told me he was at 26th, but that he couldn’t find me. Of course, Shan and Cheryl didn’t show. On the walk back to my car I felt frustrated, like I still didn’t deserve to call myself a surfer yet. I guess I just need more time. I’m gonna rest up, and save my strength for tomorrow. I hope I’ll have a better sesh.
Saturday, November 6, 2010
Friday, November 5, 2010
DREAM SESSIONS: FRI 11/05/2010 MORNING
DREAM SESSIONS: FRI 11/05/2010 MORNING
Yesterday, Shan told me that he wanted to surf at 26th St. at 6:45 A.M. When I showed up … he wasn’t there. … I cried. I couldn’t help it. My man partner (“martner”*) stood me up. I hoped that he would still show up. Maybe his cell phone ran out of juice, and he was already driving towards me to be with … me.
I got free parking right on top of the hill. I was lucky. At that time in the morning there were still a lot of parking spots available. I walked down to see what the surf was like. Of course, it was too dark. Actually, this was just like the other morning when I headed there. I couldn’t tell what the waves were doing, but I was pretty optimistic that it would be a good session. I took my time warming up as the sun was barely turning the sky to a reddish orange above the Manhattan Beach homes. It still looked walled, but the tide was up, so there were a couple cleaner sets that broke closer to the inside. I paddled out without a problem. There were a lot of people right in front of 26th, mostly the high school surf teams, so I went a little south. I was in a small group of surfers, and the feeling to prove yourself was alive. At that point of the morning, there were mostly fast waves that didn’t stay open long, but at least not all of the waves were complete walls. I took off on some left and rights that only had a face to support a fun slide down. I caught as many as I could to show everyone else that I wanted them.
Just before eight o’clock the tide got even higher, and it made the walled up waves have shape. After that it was like being in a whorehouse in a third world country where the American dollar goes a long way. There was wave after wave of soft four footers. I was in the prime spot to catch mostly lefts, but I got some rights, too. The waves were still a little fast, so I mainly concentrated on going down the line. When the opportunity was right, I tried to force a little spray.
I met an Indian dude in the water. His name was Ahmad from Malibu. We talked about the local surf and how he actually drives all the way here because he likes it better. The only problem with Ahmad was that since he was talking to me, he ended up hogging the waves. I had to end our relationship and paddle more towards 26th. The high schoolers had already left, and the only people left in the water were the surf junkies, like myself. I constantly turned around, expecting to see Shan walking towards me, waving his hand at me, and suiting up to paddle out. No sign.
This was a fun morning. The waves weren’t technical, barreling, or too fast. Once the tide got to it’s highest point, the waves got even softer. I paddled into waves with ease, and the waves were so soft that there was a long delay before I actually slid down the face. These waves were forgiving with more than enough time to draw a good line. It wasn’t even nine o’clock yet, and my lats were already burning from all of the paddling that I was doing.
The weather was perfect. There was a little offshore wind, it was hot as hell, and the sun baked me in my wetsuit. I had to get out. I was just too tired. It was 8:55 A.M. I turned around and saw the nicely shaped shoulders and all the surfers catching them. There was no way I could leave. I walked north to the 30th St. tower and paddled out where it was more consistent. This was where I got my wave of the day. It seemed that some of the bigger sets were breaking there, but the bigger waves had the least shape. I was lucky to get a jewel- a nice five foot left. Instead of forcing a big bottom turn to set me up for some spray on the lip, I concentrated on taking the highline to keep my speed, and I got some nice quality carves on the top. It was then that I had an epiphany. Since I learned how to get spray I have been trying to reduplicate the same thing over and over. I was so obsessed with it, that I was letting a lot of good quality rides go. So … for me it’s back to the basics/fundamentals. I will be patient, not force anything, and just let the path of the wave dictate my surfing.
By 9:30 A.M. I was drained of all my energy. I paced to the shower. I still couldn’t help but regret that I was leaving on such a perfect day. There were still so many people out getting in on all that consistent action. I hope tomorrow morning will be the same.
Yesterday, Shan told me that he wanted to surf at 26th St. at 6:45 A.M. When I showed up … he wasn’t there. … I cried. I couldn’t help it. My man partner (“martner”*) stood me up. I hoped that he would still show up. Maybe his cell phone ran out of juice, and he was already driving towards me to be with … me.
I got free parking right on top of the hill. I was lucky. At that time in the morning there were still a lot of parking spots available. I walked down to see what the surf was like. Of course, it was too dark. Actually, this was just like the other morning when I headed there. I couldn’t tell what the waves were doing, but I was pretty optimistic that it would be a good session. I took my time warming up as the sun was barely turning the sky to a reddish orange above the Manhattan Beach homes. It still looked walled, but the tide was up, so there were a couple cleaner sets that broke closer to the inside. I paddled out without a problem. There were a lot of people right in front of 26th, mostly the high school surf teams, so I went a little south. I was in a small group of surfers, and the feeling to prove yourself was alive. At that point of the morning, there were mostly fast waves that didn’t stay open long, but at least not all of the waves were complete walls. I took off on some left and rights that only had a face to support a fun slide down. I caught as many as I could to show everyone else that I wanted them.
Just before eight o’clock the tide got even higher, and it made the walled up waves have shape. After that it was like being in a whorehouse in a third world country where the American dollar goes a long way. There was wave after wave of soft four footers. I was in the prime spot to catch mostly lefts, but I got some rights, too. The waves were still a little fast, so I mainly concentrated on going down the line. When the opportunity was right, I tried to force a little spray.
I met an Indian dude in the water. His name was Ahmad from Malibu. We talked about the local surf and how he actually drives all the way here because he likes it better. The only problem with Ahmad was that since he was talking to me, he ended up hogging the waves. I had to end our relationship and paddle more towards 26th. The high schoolers had already left, and the only people left in the water were the surf junkies, like myself. I constantly turned around, expecting to see Shan walking towards me, waving his hand at me, and suiting up to paddle out. No sign.
This was a fun morning. The waves weren’t technical, barreling, or too fast. Once the tide got to it’s highest point, the waves got even softer. I paddled into waves with ease, and the waves were so soft that there was a long delay before I actually slid down the face. These waves were forgiving with more than enough time to draw a good line. It wasn’t even nine o’clock yet, and my lats were already burning from all of the paddling that I was doing.
The weather was perfect. There was a little offshore wind, it was hot as hell, and the sun baked me in my wetsuit. I had to get out. I was just too tired. It was 8:55 A.M. I turned around and saw the nicely shaped shoulders and all the surfers catching them. There was no way I could leave. I walked north to the 30th St. tower and paddled out where it was more consistent. This was where I got my wave of the day. It seemed that some of the bigger sets were breaking there, but the bigger waves had the least shape. I was lucky to get a jewel- a nice five foot left. Instead of forcing a big bottom turn to set me up for some spray on the lip, I concentrated on taking the highline to keep my speed, and I got some nice quality carves on the top. It was then that I had an epiphany. Since I learned how to get spray I have been trying to reduplicate the same thing over and over. I was so obsessed with it, that I was letting a lot of good quality rides go. So … for me it’s back to the basics/fundamentals. I will be patient, not force anything, and just let the path of the wave dictate my surfing.
By 9:30 A.M. I was drained of all my energy. I paced to the shower. I still couldn’t help but regret that I was leaving on such a perfect day. There were still so many people out getting in on all that consistent action. I hope tomorrow morning will be the same.
SMALLER WALLS: THURS 11/04/2010 EVENING
I forgot to mention something. Yesterday evening on my way down from 45th St. into the Porto lot, someone made a little candle light vigil for Andy Irons. It was simple. It was a framed picture of him, a message of Aloha, some candles, and some flowers. I thought it was a really nice gesture, I also thought it was cool that our local surf community was affected by his passing.
Shan text me a little after three and told me that he was at 26th St. I shoveled down my Cup o’ Noodle soup and headed out. I was lucky enough to find two open parking spots for Shan and I. From the top of the hill the waves looked great. It got significantly smaller, they looked softer, and there seemed to be some nice shape. I kept telling Shan to hurry up, and we finally made our way to the sand. It definitely looked a lot better on top of the hill. The tide was so low that we were able to almost walk all the way out to the line up. There were some sets coming in, but they broke pretty close to shore and were pretty walled. When we paddled out we drifted south to the next lifeguard tower.
We still got our fair share of waves, and by five o’clock, some waves actually opened up a little. It was those little random waves in between the sets that had good shape that were breaking closer to the inside. Towards the end of the session the place became packed, and I wasn’t catching much. My wave of the day was a three foot left that I caught right on the shoulder. The shoulder was so good that I was able to carve, generate some speed, and get some minor splash as I turned high on the lip.
Shan and I went back to our cars and planned to meet there again tomorrow morning.
Shan text me a little after three and told me that he was at 26th St. I shoveled down my Cup o’ Noodle soup and headed out. I was lucky enough to find two open parking spots for Shan and I. From the top of the hill the waves looked great. It got significantly smaller, they looked softer, and there seemed to be some nice shape. I kept telling Shan to hurry up, and we finally made our way to the sand. It definitely looked a lot better on top of the hill. The tide was so low that we were able to almost walk all the way out to the line up. There were some sets coming in, but they broke pretty close to shore and were pretty walled. When we paddled out we drifted south to the next lifeguard tower.
We still got our fair share of waves, and by five o’clock, some waves actually opened up a little. It was those little random waves in between the sets that had good shape that were breaking closer to the inside. Towards the end of the session the place became packed, and I wasn’t catching much. My wave of the day was a three foot left that I caught right on the shoulder. The shoulder was so good that I was able to carve, generate some speed, and get some minor splash as I turned high on the lip.
Shan and I went back to our cars and planned to meet there again tomorrow morning.
THE PAYOFF: THUR 11/04/2010 MORNING
Just like yesterday, I told Shan that I would be by 26th, but on the way there I couldn’t help but pull into El Porto. That place has been a magnet to me, and when I’m not there I just imagine that place going off. Despite it being dark, the lot was pretty full. I ended up parking close to the bathrooms again. I didn’t even bother to look to see how it was. There was a lot of people there, so I just wanted to park and get in the water. I had put on my wetsuit at home, so I was on the sand within minutes of getting there. I couldn’t tell how the waves were, all I knew was that I wanted to get to where the crowd wasn’t. I had an easy paddle out to the line up in front of the tanks.
I had to share the break with some other people, but it wasn’t that bad. All of us in the water stared at 45th as we saw the lefts that came that way. We could hear all of the hooting and hollering every time a big set came. A couple walls came through, and I caught my first couple bombs. By about eight o’clock the water changed a little. The high tide pushed the water up to the rocks’ edges. The walls became a bit softer and more forgiving. Best of all, some left hand shoulders started to form on the waves that were coming in. It was every man for himself out there, and I was lucky to be in perfect position for a lot of waves. Since it got a little mooshy, I had to catch the waves really late as they jacked up. I had a lot of fun steep drops, and this time the waves opened up a little. Sure, there weren’t perfect shoulders, but the face of the waves weren’t as vertical and allowed some nice front side carving before they closed out. I pumped and took the highline on a couple. I didn’t do anything new; I was just happy to have some shape to work with and stayed on the wave as long as I could.
I felt pretty weak again this morning, and after the first hour of surfing, I was hurting before my second hour was over. I caught my last wave all the way to shore again.
There aren’t too many details on this entry. Some black guy was talking to his friend by my car, talking about how his girlfriend was pissed off at him because he surfs too much. I’m glad I don’t have that problem. I met some French surfer in the water. He told me he saw me go for a wave that was over head. He was pretty cool, except when you meet people in the water, they come too close and steal your waves- another reason to keep to myself. I was happy with this morning’s session, glad that I got some kind of pay off after riding nothing but close outs the last couple days.
Today’s lesson learned: Stay patient, carve, carve, carve on the front side. Let my surf progression be natural and self expressing; enjoy the wave. When I started surfing, it wasn’t to do anything technical. All I wanted was to get on a wave, whether it was straight or only one foot high.
I had to share the break with some other people, but it wasn’t that bad. All of us in the water stared at 45th as we saw the lefts that came that way. We could hear all of the hooting and hollering every time a big set came. A couple walls came through, and I caught my first couple bombs. By about eight o’clock the water changed a little. The high tide pushed the water up to the rocks’ edges. The walls became a bit softer and more forgiving. Best of all, some left hand shoulders started to form on the waves that were coming in. It was every man for himself out there, and I was lucky to be in perfect position for a lot of waves. Since it got a little mooshy, I had to catch the waves really late as they jacked up. I had a lot of fun steep drops, and this time the waves opened up a little. Sure, there weren’t perfect shoulders, but the face of the waves weren’t as vertical and allowed some nice front side carving before they closed out. I pumped and took the highline on a couple. I didn’t do anything new; I was just happy to have some shape to work with and stayed on the wave as long as I could.
I felt pretty weak again this morning, and after the first hour of surfing, I was hurting before my second hour was over. I caught my last wave all the way to shore again.
There aren’t too many details on this entry. Some black guy was talking to his friend by my car, talking about how his girlfriend was pissed off at him because he surfs too much. I’m glad I don’t have that problem. I met some French surfer in the water. He told me he saw me go for a wave that was over head. He was pretty cool, except when you meet people in the water, they come too close and steal your waves- another reason to keep to myself. I was happy with this morning’s session, glad that I got some kind of pay off after riding nothing but close outs the last couple days.
Today’s lesson learned: Stay patient, carve, carve, carve on the front side. Let my surf progression be natural and self expressing; enjoy the wave. When I started surfing, it wasn’t to do anything technical. All I wanted was to get on a wave, whether it was straight or only one foot high.
Thursday, November 4, 2010
RIDING THE WALL: WED 11/03/2010 EVENING
I was hoping for the swell to fade a little so the waves would form some kind of real shape. I pulled up at 45th and scored on the free parking at 4:45 P.M. I gave Shan a call and told him that it looked a little walled still, but that it seemed a little bit smaller. He said he’d check it in the A.M. Just as I got off the phone with him, the fucking El Segundo parking enforcement made me move my car, so I did a loop through the parking lot then came back to park. The tide was a bit high. The usual spots were crowded, so I went to my usual spot (surprise surprise). This time, I wasn’t so lucky on my paddle out. I walked my board as far as I could stand, and there was just endless sets after that. I ended up duck diving, stationary, for at least five minutes before there was a little lull. Miraculously, I made it out. There was another crowd out that afternoon. The whole south bay surf community knows about the current swell, so everybody and anybody that has a wave addiction was there. My back muscles were sore from my last work out at the gym and just from all the surfing I have been doing in general. My paddle felt weak, but it definitely wasn’t the time to be lazy about anything out there.
I mentioned earlier that I had hoped that the shape would be better. If the shape was better, it wasn’t by much. The size did come down just a tad bit. The only good thing about this session was that I racked up a high wave count and didn’t wipe out on one wave. Yes, they were mostly close outs, but I went for a lot of them, bailed out as soon as they closed, then turned around for more. I was doing pretty good compared to the other guys around there. Some guys didn’t want to paddle into those that I got, but it was either that or no waves at all.
On some of the walls, I was able to paddle in right where the little shoulder seemed to be above the sea level, but by the time I was paddling into them, they still ended up closing fast. I got caught on the inside a couple times which was really frustrating. I just couldn’t successfully duck dive under the roaring rapids. The duck dive is one of my major weaknesses.
A clean up set came through after I caught my last wave. I talked to a guy that was on the shore, and he told me he just swallowed a gang of water because of that set. We talked about how it was dangerous and not worth it. Either way … I was somewhat satisfied that I got a lot of waves, even though they were closeouts.
I mentioned earlier that I had hoped that the shape would be better. If the shape was better, it wasn’t by much. The size did come down just a tad bit. The only good thing about this session was that I racked up a high wave count and didn’t wipe out on one wave. Yes, they were mostly close outs, but I went for a lot of them, bailed out as soon as they closed, then turned around for more. I was doing pretty good compared to the other guys around there. Some guys didn’t want to paddle into those that I got, but it was either that or no waves at all.
On some of the walls, I was able to paddle in right where the little shoulder seemed to be above the sea level, but by the time I was paddling into them, they still ended up closing fast. I got caught on the inside a couple times which was really frustrating. I just couldn’t successfully duck dive under the roaring rapids. The duck dive is one of my major weaknesses.
A clean up set came through after I caught my last wave. I talked to a guy that was on the shore, and he told me he just swallowed a gang of water because of that set. We talked about how it was dangerous and not worth it. Either way … I was somewhat satisfied that I got a lot of waves, even though they were closeouts.
THE GREAT WALL OF PORTO: WED 11/03/2010 MORNING
I told J. and Shan that I’d be at 26th in the morning. I text them when I got there, but I didn’t hear back from any one of them. I got free parking on Highland Ave. and walked down to have a look. It was still dark with a group of local guys checking it out, too. It was about a quarter to seven. I saw all the high school kids sitting out by the tower and walled up waves ahead of them in the line up. I stood there for almost ten minutes trying to make a decision. I was looking a little more south to see if it was any better. It looked as if there was a little peak, but when the sets came everything was a wall. I watched a couple guys get some waves, but they had to take the high line, and there was really no where to go but straight. The surfers that rode the face ended up getting pitched over.
I gave up my free parking spot. I was being picky. I think it’s easy to be picky in the morning when there’s still no light out. Even worse was just looking at a fucking wall of water. There was so much potential for phenomenal conditions, but there was nothing crossing up the wall to form a peak, and it was just too big for the sand bars here.
I got to Porto a little after seven. The parking lot was packed. I had to park at the south side of the bathrooms. I took a look. The main peaks in front of 45th, the bathrooms, and Rosecrans were walled, but they seemed to produce some rideable waves here and there. Of course, they were jam packed. I already didn’t have a good feeling about paddling out, so I headed towards the tanks where it was less crowded. I, again, timed my paddle out perfect and only had to duck dive one wave. I sat and waited for anything that looked rideable. Literally, the waves that came had six foot faces with no shoulders. It was ridiculous, the waves had lines almost as straight as the horizon with no hope of any kind of peak, corner, or shoulder.
I saw a right coming. It looked like it had just a little shoulder that might at least give a couple seconds of good riding time. I didn’t get the slide until I was all the way at the top. It was a nice long angled drop which exploded as I stuck my landing. I took that wave all the way in. There were a lot of spectators on the sand. As I walked on the shore some of them were looking at me. They weren’t looking in amazement, but more of a “I saw you didn’t eat shit” kind of look. The reason I say this is because it was a wipe out show. I heard “ooooohs” and “aaaaaaahs” as I saw people getting their anuses tapped trying to paddle into those brutal walls.
One wave. That was all I needed. I didn’t eat shit, I didn’t almost drown, and the conditions weren’t good any how. As I walked back to my car I saw one of the biggest rights I had ever seen in front of 45th go completely unridden. I would be back later in the afternoon.
I gave up my free parking spot. I was being picky. I think it’s easy to be picky in the morning when there’s still no light out. Even worse was just looking at a fucking wall of water. There was so much potential for phenomenal conditions, but there was nothing crossing up the wall to form a peak, and it was just too big for the sand bars here.
I got to Porto a little after seven. The parking lot was packed. I had to park at the south side of the bathrooms. I took a look. The main peaks in front of 45th, the bathrooms, and Rosecrans were walled, but they seemed to produce some rideable waves here and there. Of course, they were jam packed. I already didn’t have a good feeling about paddling out, so I headed towards the tanks where it was less crowded. I, again, timed my paddle out perfect and only had to duck dive one wave. I sat and waited for anything that looked rideable. Literally, the waves that came had six foot faces with no shoulders. It was ridiculous, the waves had lines almost as straight as the horizon with no hope of any kind of peak, corner, or shoulder.
I saw a right coming. It looked like it had just a little shoulder that might at least give a couple seconds of good riding time. I didn’t get the slide until I was all the way at the top. It was a nice long angled drop which exploded as I stuck my landing. I took that wave all the way in. There were a lot of spectators on the sand. As I walked on the shore some of them were looking at me. They weren’t looking in amazement, but more of a “I saw you didn’t eat shit” kind of look. The reason I say this is because it was a wipe out show. I heard “ooooohs” and “aaaaaaahs” as I saw people getting their anuses tapped trying to paddle into those brutal walls.
One wave. That was all I needed. I didn’t eat shit, I didn’t almost drown, and the conditions weren’t good any how. As I walked back to my car I saw one of the biggest rights I had ever seen in front of 45th go completely unridden. I would be back later in the afternoon.
Wednesday, November 3, 2010
THE WORST CLEANEST DAY EVER: TUE 11/02/2010
First off, Andy Irons died on this day. It's so heart wrenching for this to happen. I was a huge fan, enjoyed his surfing, followed his career, and hoped to see him beat Kelly one more time. The surfing community everywhere will feel this hard blow for a while.
I got to the Porto parking lot just before 4:00 PM. I was hoping that the good surf would continue after Monday's sesh. The conditions seemed similar: clear skies, hot as hell, no wind, etc. As I drove on Vista Del Mar I saw that a left was going off at the Hammerland. I was able to see the swell as I drove down 45th and into the parking lot. There was no where to park until I drove by the bathrooms. I parked and text Shan, Dais, and a couple of other people. Shan called and told me he was almost there. I left some sunblock on my bumper for him and told him to meet me at 45th.
Looking at it, initially, it looked really good. At least the break in between the bathrooms and the 45th St. tower looked good. I couldn't tell what it was doing everywhere else yet. Or maybe I knew what it was, but I just didn't want to believe that it was WALLED.
I paddled out right in front of 45th. I thought I would have a hard time, but I timed it just right where I only had to duckdive one wave. The waves did seem pretty walled up, but I was hoping for one of them to at least have some kind of shape. There were a lot of people at the main peak, but no one anywhere else, so I only had a couple people around me. I paddled for my first wave which was a bomb. I survived the drop, and there was nothing but white water after that. The waves were close to six feet, and possibly a little more on the plus sized sets. I saw a guy on the inside just getting pounded. He was there forever, caught between a world of wanting to surf and being in fear of drowning at the same time. I didn't blame him. I could easily be there as well, and this was clearly not a day for beginners.
Into my first hour, more people started to show up. I saw three guys getting worked on the inside, too. It took them a long time to get where I was. Just as they were close to the line up I caught a left that actually opened up a little. As I got the slide and popped up I looked at fast building shoulder that was forming into a wall. No crazy pumps or carves here. I had enough speed and momentum to enjoy that moment of serenity as the lip started to curl right next to me. I could have tried to tuck in there to get a half second barrel, but I knew that this wave was going to end one way, and that's with a ferocious crash. Once the wave closed I stepped off the rail and turned back. Just as I was paddling, I saw Shan waving me down. Not only that, now there just seemed to be double the amount of surfers in the water. It didn't matter. No one seemed to get in anyone's way because people were passing on the close outs, and if there was a shoulder, you had to be in that one perfect spot for it. I got a couple more waves that opened up a little, but they were still very fast rides that closed. After that, Shan and I spent the rest of the session scratching for, then backing off of walled up close outs.
Shan looked at me and said, "This is the worst, best conditions surf day ever." I agreed. There was size, just no damn shape. Or as usual ... you had to be in the right place. The jetty was going off. I saw rights breaking in front of the jetty's point, and they seemed gnarly and huge. There was so much roaring white water on the inside over there.
It was almost 6:00 P.M. I told Shan I had to go, and that I'd shoot him a text that night. I tried to catch one in. As I paddled, the backwash from the inside jacked up my wave as I was about to pop up. It ended up disrupting my movement, and I got pitched upside down. I covered up my face as my brother taught me. I was pulled under so hard and deep that my upper back and neck hit the bottom. I surfaced for a breath, but the wave sucked me under again. Thank goodness I got a good breath. I thought to myself, "Is this what people go through before their last moments of drowning?" I stayed calm, swam to the surface, and was all right. The scene was eerie once I got to the top. No one was around, and the shore looked even farther away from the water being pushed high up on the shore. It finally occurred to me that I must've been the only dumb ass to go for that wave because everyone else rushed to the outside to avoid the set. I was alone. I turned around and couldn't even see the horizon. Another huge dumper was opening its jaws on me. I forced myself under and went through the washing machine again, resurfaced, then one more time. I caught a violent explosion of white water back to the shore. When I got to the sand I saw Shan. He was going to surf longer than I, but his hair and suit was completely peppered with sand.
He said, "I got caught on the inside and sandwashed. There was another guy next to me freaking out. It was about eight feet." As we got back to our cars we watched the waves. The break by the bathrooms seemed to be the only place where there was a consistent left. There were also surfers catching waves near the inside, but working the inside was a gamble once the outside sets came.
Yeah, it was kind of big, kind of gnarly. I wanted to dedicate that sesh to Andy, but I got my ass kicked.
I got to the Porto parking lot just before 4:00 PM. I was hoping that the good surf would continue after Monday's sesh. The conditions seemed similar: clear skies, hot as hell, no wind, etc. As I drove on Vista Del Mar I saw that a left was going off at the Hammerland. I was able to see the swell as I drove down 45th and into the parking lot. There was no where to park until I drove by the bathrooms. I parked and text Shan, Dais, and a couple of other people. Shan called and told me he was almost there. I left some sunblock on my bumper for him and told him to meet me at 45th.
Looking at it, initially, it looked really good. At least the break in between the bathrooms and the 45th St. tower looked good. I couldn't tell what it was doing everywhere else yet. Or maybe I knew what it was, but I just didn't want to believe that it was WALLED.
I paddled out right in front of 45th. I thought I would have a hard time, but I timed it just right where I only had to duckdive one wave. The waves did seem pretty walled up, but I was hoping for one of them to at least have some kind of shape. There were a lot of people at the main peak, but no one anywhere else, so I only had a couple people around me. I paddled for my first wave which was a bomb. I survived the drop, and there was nothing but white water after that. The waves were close to six feet, and possibly a little more on the plus sized sets. I saw a guy on the inside just getting pounded. He was there forever, caught between a world of wanting to surf and being in fear of drowning at the same time. I didn't blame him. I could easily be there as well, and this was clearly not a day for beginners.
Into my first hour, more people started to show up. I saw three guys getting worked on the inside, too. It took them a long time to get where I was. Just as they were close to the line up I caught a left that actually opened up a little. As I got the slide and popped up I looked at fast building shoulder that was forming into a wall. No crazy pumps or carves here. I had enough speed and momentum to enjoy that moment of serenity as the lip started to curl right next to me. I could have tried to tuck in there to get a half second barrel, but I knew that this wave was going to end one way, and that's with a ferocious crash. Once the wave closed I stepped off the rail and turned back. Just as I was paddling, I saw Shan waving me down. Not only that, now there just seemed to be double the amount of surfers in the water. It didn't matter. No one seemed to get in anyone's way because people were passing on the close outs, and if there was a shoulder, you had to be in that one perfect spot for it. I got a couple more waves that opened up a little, but they were still very fast rides that closed. After that, Shan and I spent the rest of the session scratching for, then backing off of walled up close outs.
Shan looked at me and said, "This is the worst, best conditions surf day ever." I agreed. There was size, just no damn shape. Or as usual ... you had to be in the right place. The jetty was going off. I saw rights breaking in front of the jetty's point, and they seemed gnarly and huge. There was so much roaring white water on the inside over there.
It was almost 6:00 P.M. I told Shan I had to go, and that I'd shoot him a text that night. I tried to catch one in. As I paddled, the backwash from the inside jacked up my wave as I was about to pop up. It ended up disrupting my movement, and I got pitched upside down. I covered up my face as my brother taught me. I was pulled under so hard and deep that my upper back and neck hit the bottom. I surfaced for a breath, but the wave sucked me under again. Thank goodness I got a good breath. I thought to myself, "Is this what people go through before their last moments of drowning?" I stayed calm, swam to the surface, and was all right. The scene was eerie once I got to the top. No one was around, and the shore looked even farther away from the water being pushed high up on the shore. It finally occurred to me that I must've been the only dumb ass to go for that wave because everyone else rushed to the outside to avoid the set. I was alone. I turned around and couldn't even see the horizon. Another huge dumper was opening its jaws on me. I forced myself under and went through the washing machine again, resurfaced, then one more time. I caught a violent explosion of white water back to the shore. When I got to the sand I saw Shan. He was going to surf longer than I, but his hair and suit was completely peppered with sand.
He said, "I got caught on the inside and sandwashed. There was another guy next to me freaking out. It was about eight feet." As we got back to our cars we watched the waves. The break by the bathrooms seemed to be the only place where there was a consistent left. There were also surfers catching waves near the inside, but working the inside was a gamble once the outside sets came.
Yeah, it was kind of big, kind of gnarly. I wanted to dedicate that sesh to Andy, but I got my ass kicked.
Tuesday, November 2, 2010
I’LL HAVE ONE EVENING SESSION WITH PERFECT THREE FOOT WAVES, PLEASE: MON 11/01/2010
I DVR’d the Warriors VS. Lakers game. That’s the only way I watch anything on TV now, DVR. I glanced at my watch over and over again. It was already 4:30 P.M. I knew that I wanted to get in the water as early as possible, but I also love watching the Lake Show put on a clinic, too. When I drove to 45th and got my usual free parking space, a warm fuzzy feeling filled my heart as I stared out into the line up. I couldn’t believe it. There was practically no wind, the water was glassy, it was nice and warm, and there were peaks with clean shoulders. Surfing evening sessions are always risky. Usually, it’s always way better in the morning, and the evening is a gamble. However, there are some days when the evenings are perfect. Nine times out of ten, though, the evening sessions are disappointing. When I think of good evening sessions, one always pops up in my mind. Over a year ago Lauren and I drove down to Porto on a late afternoon to find Klaude running down 45th with his fish in hand. Lauren watched us from the sand as Klaude and I tore it up in front of the tanks just north of the 45th St. tower. That was a perfect afternoon. Whenever I drive to the beach for a late sesh, that is exactly the vision that I hope for. This day was just as good, if not better.
I changed as fast as possible and shuffled down to the sand. Immediately, I regretted not being there earlier. It was definitely a day that I should have showed up at four o’clock, said fuck the free parking, and dished out the quarters. I only had an hour, so I was going to make the best of it. There was a right hand peak that was breaking in front of the first tank to the north, and a left hand peak that was breaking just south of 45th. I paddled out in the saddle between both. Both peaks already had a couple long boarders, and I didn’t want to get too close to them because I expected them to get the slide earlier than me. Luckily, even though I wasn’t in the prime spot, some of the waves broke random enough in my area. I literally had that area to myself for forty five minutes. For most of the session I was getting nothing but lefts off of that south peak. It was a perfect day for a long board, but it was still fun enough for a fin or a juicy thruster. The water was so glassy that the wall of approaching water reflected back without any texture, almost giving an illusion of invisibility. After popping up I could see the perfect shoulder building and forming in front of me as I went down the line- that soft, smooth, and perfect curved surface that is just asking to be shredded by your big hunk of fiber glass. The shape was so perfect that it reminded me of the waves at Sunset Beach, how that right peak can be perfect sometimes. The only problem was that it would’ve been nice if it was a little bigger, but I’ll take clean three footers any day over afternoon chop.
I lied. There was another problem. … Me. I was trying to do way to fucking much on the waves again. I really should have just gone done the line, did some light carving, and enjoyed them all the way to shore. But no, yours truly was trying to carve the hell out of them to get some front side spray going on. Don’t get me wrong. Every wave was fucking fun, but I really should’ve recognized the waves for what they were made for that day. None-the-less, I paddled aggressively into each wave, tried my best to pump my board, practiced my turns and carves high up on the lip, and maybe got some baby splash before eating shit.
Every left I got was “pump training.” I was staying just outside of the crumble, racing with the section, and pumping non stop to stay on the face. After each wave I paddled back, ferociously, to get to the line again. I eventually paddled north to catch some rights as well, but since the waves were only three feet, I couldn’t get deep enough of a bottom turn to set me up for hack.
I left unwillingly. I turned around and saw more peaks coming. It wasn’t even crowded! A lot of people were missing out.
My lessons learned: I have to be patient on getting some spray on the front side. I have to remember that when I finally did it going backhand, that I had to get really comfortable with my backside carving to the point that throwing out the tail a little felt natural. It eventually led to that group session at 26th where I put a little more mustard on it, and “Wallah!” I got spray for the first time. My front side carving is still in it’s fetal stages of controlling the carve before I can throw out the tail a little. In due time. …
Right now it’s 3:14 P.M., the day after. I am packing up to head out to the beach. Hopefully it’s just as good.
I changed as fast as possible and shuffled down to the sand. Immediately, I regretted not being there earlier. It was definitely a day that I should have showed up at four o’clock, said fuck the free parking, and dished out the quarters. I only had an hour, so I was going to make the best of it. There was a right hand peak that was breaking in front of the first tank to the north, and a left hand peak that was breaking just south of 45th. I paddled out in the saddle between both. Both peaks already had a couple long boarders, and I didn’t want to get too close to them because I expected them to get the slide earlier than me. Luckily, even though I wasn’t in the prime spot, some of the waves broke random enough in my area. I literally had that area to myself for forty five minutes. For most of the session I was getting nothing but lefts off of that south peak. It was a perfect day for a long board, but it was still fun enough for a fin or a juicy thruster. The water was so glassy that the wall of approaching water reflected back without any texture, almost giving an illusion of invisibility. After popping up I could see the perfect shoulder building and forming in front of me as I went down the line- that soft, smooth, and perfect curved surface that is just asking to be shredded by your big hunk of fiber glass. The shape was so perfect that it reminded me of the waves at Sunset Beach, how that right peak can be perfect sometimes. The only problem was that it would’ve been nice if it was a little bigger, but I’ll take clean three footers any day over afternoon chop.
I lied. There was another problem. … Me. I was trying to do way to fucking much on the waves again. I really should have just gone done the line, did some light carving, and enjoyed them all the way to shore. But no, yours truly was trying to carve the hell out of them to get some front side spray going on. Don’t get me wrong. Every wave was fucking fun, but I really should’ve recognized the waves for what they were made for that day. None-the-less, I paddled aggressively into each wave, tried my best to pump my board, practiced my turns and carves high up on the lip, and maybe got some baby splash before eating shit.
Every left I got was “pump training.” I was staying just outside of the crumble, racing with the section, and pumping non stop to stay on the face. After each wave I paddled back, ferociously, to get to the line again. I eventually paddled north to catch some rights as well, but since the waves were only three feet, I couldn’t get deep enough of a bottom turn to set me up for hack.
I left unwillingly. I turned around and saw more peaks coming. It wasn’t even crowded! A lot of people were missing out.
My lessons learned: I have to be patient on getting some spray on the front side. I have to remember that when I finally did it going backhand, that I had to get really comfortable with my backside carving to the point that throwing out the tail a little felt natural. It eventually led to that group session at 26th where I put a little more mustard on it, and “Wallah!” I got spray for the first time. My front side carving is still in it’s fetal stages of controlling the carve before I can throw out the tail a little. In due time. …
Right now it’s 3:14 P.M., the day after. I am packing up to head out to the beach. Hopefully it’s just as good.
Sunday, October 31, 2010
MEDIOCRE WAVES ON A BEAUTIFUL HALLOWEEN SUNDAY: 10/31/2010
I went to sleep at about 4:30 A.M. I wanted to get up early and surf, but the usual 6:30 A.M. wake up call wasn’t going to work- I needed more than two hours of sleep. I got up at about a quarter to nine and was in the water paddling by 9:30 A.M. I called Shan before I paddled out and told him about the conditions. It was a beautiful morning. The sky was bluer than ever, the wind was minimal, the ocean looked glassy, and mounds of water formed peaks along the beach. From the shore it looked okay. It actually looked a little walled and dumpy, but the conditions were so good that I was optimistic on lucking out on a shoulder.
It was a little crowded, so I ended up by the last storage tank. I ran into the long haired Asian dude. He said he didn’t even bother to surf yesterday, and that the waves this morning are mostly breaking on shore. I need to get his name, eventually.
The inside waves were about three feet, but some set waves would come in close to five. A lot of the waves I went for close out. Since they were dumpy, I tucked myself in the curl and popped out behind the waves as they closed. I had two solid hours on the meter, and despite catching a lot of waves, only four opened up fairly well for me. I got a nice left which lasted a long time. I was at least able to work on my carving. I attempted a cut back which came out uber weak, but it was still a fun wave. On another left I tried to pump my board, but I did the same thing where I pumped vertically, and my feet left my board- it was a wasted wave. On the rights I was able to get some spray on one, but none that were emphatic.
As I was paddling out to the line I got my ass kicked on the inside. A set wave dumped right on me. I was still on the inside, and when I duck dived in the shallows it pushed the nose of my board so hard that the tail came up and whacked my right foot. The pain stunned me a little as I grimaced on the way back to the line. At least there were no openings on my foot and more important, my board.
When I was done it looked like it was getting a little better. I was happy to get wet, it could’ve been worse, but I left hungry for something more.
It was a little crowded, so I ended up by the last storage tank. I ran into the long haired Asian dude. He said he didn’t even bother to surf yesterday, and that the waves this morning are mostly breaking on shore. I need to get his name, eventually.
The inside waves were about three feet, but some set waves would come in close to five. A lot of the waves I went for close out. Since they were dumpy, I tucked myself in the curl and popped out behind the waves as they closed. I had two solid hours on the meter, and despite catching a lot of waves, only four opened up fairly well for me. I got a nice left which lasted a long time. I was at least able to work on my carving. I attempted a cut back which came out uber weak, but it was still a fun wave. On another left I tried to pump my board, but I did the same thing where I pumped vertically, and my feet left my board- it was a wasted wave. On the rights I was able to get some spray on one, but none that were emphatic.
As I was paddling out to the line I got my ass kicked on the inside. A set wave dumped right on me. I was still on the inside, and when I duck dived in the shallows it pushed the nose of my board so hard that the tail came up and whacked my right foot. The pain stunned me a little as I grimaced on the way back to the line. At least there were no openings on my foot and more important, my board.
When I was done it looked like it was getting a little better. I was happy to get wet, it could’ve been worse, but I left hungry for something more.
SLOPPY AND CHOPPY: SAT 10/30/2010
I was nursing a hell of a hangover that morning and actually that afternoon, too. I missed out on the morning, but Shan text me and said it wasn’t good. I really needed to get wet. No matter what I do in a day, surfing at least gives me the feeling that I accomplished something; it’s great that surfing can do that for you.
I scored on the free parking on 45th again right before 5:00 P.M. As I looked down at the ocean I could see that the current was pretty strong and moving south. It looked like there was a little bit of size, but there was so much wind that the surf was funky. There was a lot of chop, and the surf looked sloppy, overall.
Not that many people were out, which was a surprise seeing as how it was a Saturday. Even in shitty conditions, there are normally some long boarders that will go out no matter what and other people that have a similar addiction as I. I paddled out where about four people were. It didn’t take long to catch some waves. The average wave height was about four feet, and the set waves were close to six. Most of the waves I got didn’t open up, and I rode a lot of the turbulent foam to shore.
The inside was a little tough to paddle through, but since the waves weren’t too dumpy, it was easy to manage. The surfers around me left. I turned to look at the parking lot, and it was close to completely empty without any fresh surfers changing or approaching. I paddled south to get close to another group. I don’t like to surf all by myself if I can avoid it, and I don’t mind hanging on the outer edge of a group of guys. You never know.
I was lucky enough to actually get on a couple waves that opened up: a left and two rights. Due to the sloppiness and lack of shape, as soon as I popped up, I had to charge down the line as fast as possible to get some time on the open face. On one right, the wave built up into a wall, and I either had to hack it or go over it. I tried to go over it, but I wasn’t high enough, so the whole wave basically bitch slapped my right ear, neck, and head. It fucking hurt. It was literally like the wave was a huge hand, and it just knocked the shit out of me. I am not good enough where I can make something out of that wall. It looked like a perfect platform to set you up for a boost of air, but I’m too far from that stage.
I surfed for exactly an hour. I caught my last wave all the way to shore, and I didn’t want to deal with the paddle back. I don’t know if the tide was high, but it was a long paddle to the line. There was so much turbulence in the ocean, and it didn’t help that I was still hungover. When I left I only saw two guys surfing Porto and a little group by Rosecrans. The ocean was deserted- an eerie feeling.
I scored on the free parking on 45th again right before 5:00 P.M. As I looked down at the ocean I could see that the current was pretty strong and moving south. It looked like there was a little bit of size, but there was so much wind that the surf was funky. There was a lot of chop, and the surf looked sloppy, overall.
Not that many people were out, which was a surprise seeing as how it was a Saturday. Even in shitty conditions, there are normally some long boarders that will go out no matter what and other people that have a similar addiction as I. I paddled out where about four people were. It didn’t take long to catch some waves. The average wave height was about four feet, and the set waves were close to six. Most of the waves I got didn’t open up, and I rode a lot of the turbulent foam to shore.
The inside was a little tough to paddle through, but since the waves weren’t too dumpy, it was easy to manage. The surfers around me left. I turned to look at the parking lot, and it was close to completely empty without any fresh surfers changing or approaching. I paddled south to get close to another group. I don’t like to surf all by myself if I can avoid it, and I don’t mind hanging on the outer edge of a group of guys. You never know.
I was lucky enough to actually get on a couple waves that opened up: a left and two rights. Due to the sloppiness and lack of shape, as soon as I popped up, I had to charge down the line as fast as possible to get some time on the open face. On one right, the wave built up into a wall, and I either had to hack it or go over it. I tried to go over it, but I wasn’t high enough, so the whole wave basically bitch slapped my right ear, neck, and head. It fucking hurt. It was literally like the wave was a huge hand, and it just knocked the shit out of me. I am not good enough where I can make something out of that wall. It looked like a perfect platform to set you up for a boost of air, but I’m too far from that stage.
I surfed for exactly an hour. I caught my last wave all the way to shore, and I didn’t want to deal with the paddle back. I don’t know if the tide was high, but it was a long paddle to the line. There was so much turbulence in the ocean, and it didn’t help that I was still hungover. When I left I only saw two guys surfing Porto and a little group by Rosecrans. The ocean was deserted- an eerie feeling.
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