I went to sleep at about 4:30 A.M. I wanted to get up early and surf, but the usual 6:30 A.M. wake up call wasn’t going to work- I needed more than two hours of sleep. I got up at about a quarter to nine and was in the water paddling by 9:30 A.M. I called Shan before I paddled out and told him about the conditions. It was a beautiful morning. The sky was bluer than ever, the wind was minimal, the ocean looked glassy, and mounds of water formed peaks along the beach. From the shore it looked okay. It actually looked a little walled and dumpy, but the conditions were so good that I was optimistic on lucking out on a shoulder.
It was a little crowded, so I ended up by the last storage tank. I ran into the long haired Asian dude. He said he didn’t even bother to surf yesterday, and that the waves this morning are mostly breaking on shore. I need to get his name, eventually.
The inside waves were about three feet, but some set waves would come in close to five. A lot of the waves I went for close out. Since they were dumpy, I tucked myself in the curl and popped out behind the waves as they closed. I had two solid hours on the meter, and despite catching a lot of waves, only four opened up fairly well for me. I got a nice left which lasted a long time. I was at least able to work on my carving. I attempted a cut back which came out uber weak, but it was still a fun wave. On another left I tried to pump my board, but I did the same thing where I pumped vertically, and my feet left my board- it was a wasted wave. On the rights I was able to get some spray on one, but none that were emphatic.
As I was paddling out to the line I got my ass kicked on the inside. A set wave dumped right on me. I was still on the inside, and when I duck dived in the shallows it pushed the nose of my board so hard that the tail came up and whacked my right foot. The pain stunned me a little as I grimaced on the way back to the line. At least there were no openings on my foot and more important, my board.
When I was done it looked like it was getting a little better. I was happy to get wet, it could’ve been worse, but I left hungry for something more.
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