I forgot to mention something. Yesterday evening on my way down from 45th St. into the Porto lot, someone made a little candle light vigil for Andy Irons. It was simple. It was a framed picture of him, a message of Aloha, some candles, and some flowers. I thought it was a really nice gesture, I also thought it was cool that our local surf community was affected by his passing.
Shan text me a little after three and told me that he was at 26th St. I shoveled down my Cup o’ Noodle soup and headed out. I was lucky enough to find two open parking spots for Shan and I. From the top of the hill the waves looked great. It got significantly smaller, they looked softer, and there seemed to be some nice shape. I kept telling Shan to hurry up, and we finally made our way to the sand. It definitely looked a lot better on top of the hill. The tide was so low that we were able to almost walk all the way out to the line up. There were some sets coming in, but they broke pretty close to shore and were pretty walled. When we paddled out we drifted south to the next lifeguard tower.
We still got our fair share of waves, and by five o’clock, some waves actually opened up a little. It was those little random waves in between the sets that had good shape that were breaking closer to the inside. Towards the end of the session the place became packed, and I wasn’t catching much. My wave of the day was a three foot left that I caught right on the shoulder. The shoulder was so good that I was able to carve, generate some speed, and get some minor splash as I turned high on the lip.
Shan and I went back to our cars and planned to meet there again tomorrow morning.
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