It’s official. I’ve fallen off the map. No Instagram, no
Facebook, no social media. If you’ve had a birthday in the last eight months,
chances are I missed it (from lack of Facebooking), and being the lame friend
that I am, I apologize. If you’re not part of my small childhood circle of
friends, if you don’t surf where I surf, if you’re not a coworker, or if you
haven’t collaborated to kill some AYCE sushi with me, chances are I haven’t
seen or talked to you.
I’ve
lost the drive to write about my sessions, and it’s taken me years to realize
this, but nobody gives a shit about what my sessions at El Porto were like on
so-and-so day with Kook the Noob McGillicutty dropping in on me and me getting
pissed off, blah, blah, blah, we’ve all heard it before.
Despite
all this, I haven’t lost my passion for surfing. Even now after securing work
as a Ramper at LAX and an Associate Editor, I’ve still been in love with
surfing more than ever. I got my first custom-shaped board from Don Kadowaki a
few months ago and have been surfing the shit out of it. I scored uncrowded
surf at Oceanside and surfed uncrowded Trestles when that whale washed up at
Lowers. I recently camped at San Onofre just this past weekend when a pumping
swell rolled through, both times I had my battle buddy Klaude by my side.
I lost
my drive to write and instead gave myself up for the moment. I felt like taking
time out to snap that picture, post it, hashtag it, or blog about it later was
taking away from myself, and it’s been relieving to put it all down and just be
one with the experience that I was undertaking, whether I was pulling out my
board to rush it or standing on the beach staring at onshore slop. It’s helped
me with establishing a better balance between work, my life, and my wife.
Only
recently have I gotten back on my apps and opened up this blog to provide
content with a different approach. Life isn’t just surfing. It’s also
everything else in between. And it doesn’t have to be all the time. Just a
blurb will do.
