Thu., Oct. 24th, 2019: Red Flag Sessions #4

Loc: El Porto, north of 45^th St.

Time: 0930-1130

Conditions: offshore, fast, dumpy, 2-3 Ft.

Board: Catch Surf Skipper

            I waited a little bit later to catch the tide on the way down. Since I’d be starting later, I didn’t expect to find any street parking near 26^th St., so I changed things up and headed to 45^th St.

            It was another day of awesome conditions, Vegas meets the sea, just dry heat and very sunny and glassy. I hadn’t surfed 45^th in a while, and I forgot how the El Porto lot is usually the first option for surfers. Everyone was out. For a weekday, I don’t know if people are unemployed or not, the lineup was packed. From 45^th on southwards was nothing but bobbing bodies. A ton of longboarders were out, chicks in bikinis, a few guys trunking it. I chose my spring suit, and to me that felt just right.

            I first paddled out in a little hole just north of 45^th. There were waves there, but they were on the fast and dumpy side, typical as of late. The longboarders around me were mostly going straight. I started pulling in to work on some barrel practice.

            More north towards the smoke stacks, I saw some guys getting longer legit rides. Once a longboard couple paddled out right next to me, I paddled more north. A few other people cleared out, and then I had the place to myself for the majority of my session.

            Even though the swell was trending down, there were still waves. A few set waves broke at about four feet. A lot of the guys near me were docile. They didn’t want to go too late because it was dumpy, yet they were trying to get into the waves too early and kept scratching out.

            I scratched hard on the Skipper, and that thing is pretty good at catching waves, even at 5’6, so I was having a legit buffet.

            Things to note? Well, I didn’t make it out of any barrels. There was a left that I should have made it out of, similar to the day prior, but I still got the green-room view on a lot of my rides. It would have been a great feat. to get a clean in and out or even a doggy door barrel. It was fast. And yet, every time I looked towards 45^th and saw the lefts breaking, I could see clearly that there were waves where one could get “slotted.” I wasn’t sure if it was just a mirage effect. Were the waves in my spot breaking just as clean with good shape?

            I got good backhand practice, but I still can’t get my technique dialed in. Not sure if I should stall with my arm behind me or ride it out with my forearm in front of me, more focused on covering distance. Also, it’s a lot harder for me to start out standing and then crouching down on my backhand. I tend to end up pushing my board into the wave. Like I said, I have a lot to learn still.

            I could’ve stayed out all day. Hours later, my wife would even hit Rosecrans after work, on the very same Skipper, and catch some waves in hot, offshore conditions.

            Now on this very Friday morning, I’ve already eaten breakfast, watched my NBA game recaps, did some dishes, and caught up with this blog. Surfline is calling the swell at 1-2 ft., and yet when I saw the wave cam about an hour ago, the waves looked fun to me. I’m about to take a fat ass shit and feed my addiction once more.

Wed., Oct. 23rd, 2019: Red Flag Sessions #3

Loc: Manhattan Beach, 26^th St.

Time: 0830-1030

Conditions: offshore, fast, dumpy, 2-3 Ft.

Board: Catch Surf Skipper

            I had a hard time leaving, the conditions were so good. The whole time, the wind was either offshore, creating slight texture on the water, blowing mists over the curling lips. Or…the wind would just die and everything would glass off. The air was humid; it was desert surfing again, return of the red flag.

            The day prior, the water was cold, but on this morning, the water felt much warmer. I was boiling in my full suit, even though it’s holy. There was one guy trunking it. I wouldn’t say it’s warm enough for that, but, clearly, I could’ve busted out my spring or short-sleeve full. I pissed in my suit twice, and that was enough to make me too warm, uncomfy.

            The swell tapered down from Tuesday, but there were still waves. They were breaking the same; smaller insiders had the best potential for shape while the bigger set waves were fast and dumped close to shore.

            With my Catch Surf Skipper in hand, I was adequately equipped for the conditions. I pulled in both left and right. I’m still struggling on my backhand, but it was still good practice. I think I could’ve gotten barreled on one, but I wasn’t positioned right; I outraced it. On the lefts, there was one that I almost made it out of. It was one of those rare, perfect shoulders. It broke fast. I doggy doored it but lost my balance through the curtain. That would’ve been major success for me if I would’ve made it out clean.

            Going left, I did practice on getting that first initial pump to set up my momentum right. It worked well on this one wave that had a growing section in front of it, but I still lost it.

            There was only a light crowd to deal with the whole time. 20 Minute Toru was there, other than him, I had some small talk with a few other guys who I see there all the time, but I was pretty much in my own world.

            When it was time to leave, I walked up 29^th St. to the free parking on Highland Ave., and the houses that lined the walkway made the atmosphere look like an urban paradise. There were palm trees, exotic plants, and just a lot of well-manicured foliage that made my trek up the hill gorgeous. I wondered if I should be thanking the owners of these multi-million-dollar homes. I imagined what it would be like to be them, and then I realized that I’ve only seen a few of these homes with anyone ever in them, nor have I ever seen anyone in a surfboard or wetsuit rushing it, coming out of these homes. No, that’s actually not true. I did see a grom once come out of one of the houses, but not from a McMansion. I’ve also seen guys in wetsuits from some of the smaller homes that are sandwiched in between, away from the walkway. Well, the point I was going to make was that I don’t think all the people there are even maximizing their close proximity to the surf. Most of the homes don’t even seem occupied. And, yes, I don’t live there, but I feel that I maximize the shit out of my proximity to the beach, the four miles it takes me to get there. But it’s still nice, quiet and peaceful every time I trek up the hill. It’s a reminder that I’ll never be rich like that, but my life is rich, and maybe I should thank them for making everything so nice for a surf bum like me.

Tue., Oct. 22nd, 2019: Losing Track of 5 Sessions

Loc: Manhattan Beach

            I’ve fallen behind on this blog. One of the reasons why I stopped was because it was a lot of work to document every single session, so I’ve decided not to do that to myself anymore. So, what can I report and what progress has been made in the last week?

            The only days I didn’t surf was last Thursday and this past Saturday. Other than that, I haven’t skipped a beat.

 This past Sunday was one of the best local sessions I’ve had, perfect for beginner barrel training. There was a good windswell that day, about shoulder high, and the peaks were a little fast and “bowly.” I was on my Lost Puddle Jumper that day, and that decision was a total score. I had the wrong fin setup, being that my center fin on my first gen. Blackstix broke long ago, so I use a composite fin in its place. But…as my friend Gary would say, “It’s about the Indian, not the arrow,” so I made do.

            That morning I was pulling in, but I couldn’t make it out. I focused on at least getting that first pump to try and get the momentum I needed. Finally, on this one left, I made it clean out. No doggy door, just in and out. Even though it was small, it felt like a major feat. All around, most guys were looking for the turns. Lately, I just don’t see the waves for that purpose.

            The bad side, that morning I realized that my backhand tube riding skills are terrible. I was pulling in and pig dogging, but my wave perspective going right is different; I feel like I’m never where it’s hollow, or that I just can’t get any cover up at all. At first, I thought it was the waves, but I’m sure it’s my technique. I have broken the habit of immediately stalling, and I focus more on having my forearm and elbow for my emergency brakes while I keep as much momentum as possible.

            There was one right that was a bomb, and I grabbed rail right away. The wave felt big. I was out of my comfort zone. As I rode the wave closer to shore, it stood up more. I’m not sure if I should have stalled, had more gall to hold my line, or just plain and simply rode it out, but I freaked a little and got bucked off of my stance. As the wave was curling over me, I ended up riding out the wave on my ass. I don’t count it. I was in there, but I lost it to folly.

            None the less, friendly local Kurt called out to me in the lineup and said that he saw me in the barrel. On the next wave, I tried to redeem myself, but foolish redemption had me in the wrong mind frame, and I went to late. My board purled where the wave bottomed out, and I ended up having one of my nastiest wipeouts that morning.

            Yesterday, I went back with the Catch Surf Skipper with the pure motivation to practice my backhand tube riding. I was on a mission. Even thought the surf tapered off a bit, I still took all the set waves and pulled in. No turns. I didn’t want them, and I was on the wrong board for that anyway.

            Sadly, there were at least two lefts that I should’ve made it out on. The shoulders were perfect, and I got under the lip as they curled, but I just couldn’t get any distance.

            However, at least on my backhand, I did work on some bad habits, like looking down at my board as I grab rail instead of looking down the line to focus on where I’m going. Also, I’ve gotten a little bit better at wiping out backhand. Of course, that’s no guarantee that any barrel wipeout is “safe.”

            Today was another story. The surf was less consistent and the NW finally tapered off, leaving the S swell that usually wraps into the South Bay walled. It wasn’t walled, but the sets were fast, dumpy, and breaking in shallow water. I should’ve used the Skipper.

            My boy Klaude came out, and it was great getting some face time with him again. I’m not sure if I’m going to hit it tomorrow. I think I usually feel that way until night time when it’s time to pack the car…and I usually do.