Loc: Manhattan Beach
I’ve
fallen behind on this blog. One of the reasons why I stopped was because it was
a lot of work to document every single session, so I’ve decided not to do that
to myself anymore. So, what can I report and what progress has been made in the
last week?
The
only days I didn’t surf was last Thursday and this past Saturday. Other than
that, I haven’t skipped a beat.
This past Sunday was one of the best local sessions
I’ve had, perfect for beginner barrel training. There was a good windswell that
day, about shoulder high, and the peaks were a little fast and “bowly.” I was
on my Lost Puddle Jumper that day, and that decision was a total score. I had the
wrong fin setup, being that my center fin on my first gen. Blackstix broke long
ago, so I use a composite fin in its place. But…as my friend Gary would say, “It’s
about the Indian, not the arrow,” so I made do.
That morning
I was pulling in, but I couldn’t make it out. I focused on at least getting
that first pump to try and get the momentum I needed. Finally, on this one left,
I made it clean out. No doggy door, just in and out. Even though it was small,
it felt like a major feat. All around, most guys were looking for the turns.
Lately, I just don’t see the waves for that purpose.
The
bad side, that morning I realized that my backhand tube riding skills are terrible.
I was pulling in and pig dogging, but my wave perspective going right is
different; I feel like I’m never where it’s hollow, or that I just can’t get
any cover up at all. At first, I thought it was the waves, but I’m sure it’s my
technique. I have broken the habit of immediately stalling, and I focus more on
having my forearm and elbow for my emergency brakes while I keep as much
momentum as possible.
There
was one right that was a bomb, and I grabbed rail right away. The wave felt
big. I was out of my comfort zone. As I rode the wave closer to shore, it stood
up more. I’m not sure if I should have stalled, had more gall to hold my line,
or just plain and simply rode it out, but I freaked a little and got bucked off
of my stance. As the wave was curling over me, I ended up riding out the wave
on my ass. I don’t count it. I was in there, but I lost it to folly.
None
the less, friendly local Kurt called out to me in the lineup and said that he
saw me in the barrel. On the next wave, I tried to redeem myself, but foolish
redemption had me in the wrong mind frame, and I went to late. My board purled where
the wave bottomed out, and I ended up having one of my nastiest wipeouts that
morning.
Yesterday,
I went back with the Catch Surf Skipper with the pure motivation to practice my
backhand tube riding. I was on a mission. Even thought the surf tapered off a
bit, I still took all the set waves and pulled in. No turns. I didn’t want
them, and I was on the wrong board for that anyway.
Sadly,
there were at least two lefts that I should’ve made it out on. The shoulders
were perfect, and I got under the lip as they curled, but I just couldn’t get
any distance.
However,
at least on my backhand, I did work on some bad habits, like looking down at my
board as I grab rail instead of looking down the line to focus on where I’m going.
Also, I’ve gotten a little bit better at wiping out backhand. Of course, that’s
no guarantee that any barrel wipeout is “safe.”
Today
was another story. The surf was less consistent and the NW finally tapered off,
leaving the S swell that usually wraps into the South Bay walled. It wasn’t
walled, but the sets were fast, dumpy, and breaking in shallow water. I should’ve
used the Skipper.
My
boy Klaude came out, and it was great getting some face time with him again. I’m
not sure if I’m going to hit it tomorrow. I think I usually feel that way until
night time when it’s time to pack the car…and I usually do.
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