Wed., Oct. 23rd, 2019: Red Flag Sessions #3

Loc: Manhattan Beach, 26^th St.

Time: 0830-1030

Conditions: offshore, fast, dumpy, 2-3 Ft.

Board: Catch Surf Skipper

            I had a hard time leaving, the conditions were so good. The whole time, the wind was either offshore, creating slight texture on the water, blowing mists over the curling lips. Or…the wind would just die and everything would glass off. The air was humid; it was desert surfing again, return of the red flag.

            The day prior, the water was cold, but on this morning, the water felt much warmer. I was boiling in my full suit, even though it’s holy. There was one guy trunking it. I wouldn’t say it’s warm enough for that, but, clearly, I could’ve busted out my spring or short-sleeve full. I pissed in my suit twice, and that was enough to make me too warm, uncomfy.

            The swell tapered down from Tuesday, but there were still waves. They were breaking the same; smaller insiders had the best potential for shape while the bigger set waves were fast and dumped close to shore.

            With my Catch Surf Skipper in hand, I was adequately equipped for the conditions. I pulled in both left and right. I’m still struggling on my backhand, but it was still good practice. I think I could’ve gotten barreled on one, but I wasn’t positioned right; I outraced it. On the lefts, there was one that I almost made it out of. It was one of those rare, perfect shoulders. It broke fast. I doggy doored it but lost my balance through the curtain. That would’ve been major success for me if I would’ve made it out clean.

            Going left, I did practice on getting that first initial pump to set up my momentum right. It worked well on this one wave that had a growing section in front of it, but I still lost it.

            There was only a light crowd to deal with the whole time. 20 Minute Toru was there, other than him, I had some small talk with a few other guys who I see there all the time, but I was pretty much in my own world.

            When it was time to leave, I walked up 29^th St. to the free parking on Highland Ave., and the houses that lined the walkway made the atmosphere look like an urban paradise. There were palm trees, exotic plants, and just a lot of well-manicured foliage that made my trek up the hill gorgeous. I wondered if I should be thanking the owners of these multi-million-dollar homes. I imagined what it would be like to be them, and then I realized that I’ve only seen a few of these homes with anyone ever in them, nor have I ever seen anyone in a surfboard or wetsuit rushing it, coming out of these homes. No, that’s actually not true. I did see a grom once come out of one of the houses, but not from a McMansion. I’ve also seen guys in wetsuits from some of the smaller homes that are sandwiched in between, away from the walkway. Well, the point I was going to make was that I don’t think all the people there are even maximizing their close proximity to the surf. Most of the homes don’t even seem occupied. And, yes, I don’t live there, but I feel that I maximize the shit out of my proximity to the beach, the four miles it takes me to get there. But it’s still nice, quiet and peaceful every time I trek up the hill. It’s a reminder that I’ll never be rich like that, but my life is rich, and maybe I should thank them for making everything so nice for a surf bum like me.

Tue., Oct. 22nd, 2019: Losing Track of 5 Sessions

Loc: Manhattan Beach

            I’ve fallen behind on this blog. One of the reasons why I stopped was because it was a lot of work to document every single session, so I’ve decided not to do that to myself anymore. So, what can I report and what progress has been made in the last week?

            The only days I didn’t surf was last Thursday and this past Saturday. Other than that, I haven’t skipped a beat.

 This past Sunday was one of the best local sessions I’ve had, perfect for beginner barrel training. There was a good windswell that day, about shoulder high, and the peaks were a little fast and “bowly.” I was on my Lost Puddle Jumper that day, and that decision was a total score. I had the wrong fin setup, being that my center fin on my first gen. Blackstix broke long ago, so I use a composite fin in its place. But…as my friend Gary would say, “It’s about the Indian, not the arrow,” so I made do.

            That morning I was pulling in, but I couldn’t make it out. I focused on at least getting that first pump to try and get the momentum I needed. Finally, on this one left, I made it clean out. No doggy door, just in and out. Even though it was small, it felt like a major feat. All around, most guys were looking for the turns. Lately, I just don’t see the waves for that purpose.

            The bad side, that morning I realized that my backhand tube riding skills are terrible. I was pulling in and pig dogging, but my wave perspective going right is different; I feel like I’m never where it’s hollow, or that I just can’t get any cover up at all. At first, I thought it was the waves, but I’m sure it’s my technique. I have broken the habit of immediately stalling, and I focus more on having my forearm and elbow for my emergency brakes while I keep as much momentum as possible.

            There was one right that was a bomb, and I grabbed rail right away. The wave felt big. I was out of my comfort zone. As I rode the wave closer to shore, it stood up more. I’m not sure if I should have stalled, had more gall to hold my line, or just plain and simply rode it out, but I freaked a little and got bucked off of my stance. As the wave was curling over me, I ended up riding out the wave on my ass. I don’t count it. I was in there, but I lost it to folly.

            None the less, friendly local Kurt called out to me in the lineup and said that he saw me in the barrel. On the next wave, I tried to redeem myself, but foolish redemption had me in the wrong mind frame, and I went to late. My board purled where the wave bottomed out, and I ended up having one of my nastiest wipeouts that morning.

            Yesterday, I went back with the Catch Surf Skipper with the pure motivation to practice my backhand tube riding. I was on a mission. Even thought the surf tapered off a bit, I still took all the set waves and pulled in. No turns. I didn’t want them, and I was on the wrong board for that anyway.

            Sadly, there were at least two lefts that I should’ve made it out on. The shoulders were perfect, and I got under the lip as they curled, but I just couldn’t get any distance.

            However, at least on my backhand, I did work on some bad habits, like looking down at my board as I grab rail instead of looking down the line to focus on where I’m going. Also, I’ve gotten a little bit better at wiping out backhand. Of course, that’s no guarantee that any barrel wipeout is “safe.”

            Today was another story. The surf was less consistent and the NW finally tapered off, leaving the S swell that usually wraps into the South Bay walled. It wasn’t walled, but the sets were fast, dumpy, and breaking in shallow water. I should’ve used the Skipper.

            My boy Klaude came out, and it was great getting some face time with him again. I’m not sure if I’m going to hit it tomorrow. I think I usually feel that way until night time when it’s time to pack the car…and I usually do.

Tue., Oct. 15th, 2019: Surprise, Surprise at Shampoo Central

Loc: El Porto, 34^th to Rosecrans

Time: 0800-1000

Conditions: offshore, consistent, 3 Ft.

Board: Catch Surf Skipper

            Just call it a hunch, but if the forecast is calling for a slight bump in WNW windswell with a few south swell reinforcements, I bet on a fun local session this morning.

            Everything was prepacked the night before, and even though I had planned on waking up at first light, it just didn’t happen. I woke up with the wife at about 0700, made her coffee, drank some water, gave her a kiss, and headed towards Porto.

            Already at 0730 my secret parking spots were gone. Also, Tuesday is street cleaning on Highland Ave., so street parking was super scarce. I cruised past 26^th St. and got a glimpse of a set coming through. It looked like it was dumpy around three-to-four feet; it looked…fun. There was a pulse. There was a pulse of surf, and…I…was…not…ON IT!

            The search for parking became desperate. I found two spots on the hill, but some constructions workers literally beat me to them seconds before I arrived. I was pissed. I even honked my horn and threw my arms up in their direction.

            After trying to calm myself down, I focused on more parking. I kept missing and missing and missing, and then…FUCK YES. PARKING!!!

            I tried to calm down, to tell myself to take my time. The hardest part of the morning was over. I needed to breathe, relax, put on my sunscreen at a normal pace, and just change into my wetsuit without being over eager. I was like a Soldier fresh from deployment who hadn’t been with a woman in a year who was about to get the pussy.

            The wait was excruciating, but I finally grabbed the skipper and locked my car. Could you imagine if I lived in Hawaii? No wetsuits. It would be so much faster and easier.

            Now I needed to make a clutch decision. I was right by Tower 34. Should I walk towards 30^th St. Tower to see some of the locals I haven’t seen in a while or walk closer to Rosecrans where some of my other friends like to surf?

            Waves were coming in everywhere, but they looked a little fast, sectiony, and dumpy, especially right out front. One surfer was already there, and he hadn’t sold any of his rides. For whatever reason, I decided to just paddle out right there. At this point of my surfing life, I can’t adjust my life and schedule to everyone else. Of course, for planned occasions, yes, but just on the everyday sesh? No.

            I chose the Skipper because I had a feeling that today’s waves would be more for pulling in, and I wasn’t wrong. The waves were fast and just a little hollow because high tide hadn’t kicked in yet. It was barrel practice day.

            I just kept pulling in, channeling my inner Mason Ho. Over and over again I was getting glimpses of the tube. On one solid pinch I even had both hands out in front of me like I was presenting an invisible bowl. I traveled as far as I could before getting crunched and munched. I’ve progressed and picked up new habits that actually make closeouts fun. Back in the day, this would’ve been a disappointment.

            And then, because the Surf Gods let it be so, the shape got just a little bit better. All of a sudden, the shoulders became more defined. Man, I swear, it was the most fun I’ve had locally in a while. This one wave I just pulled in, two-hand stalled, waited, waited, and waited, and then the lip started curling over me. I doggy doored it and punched through, but I was trying to maintain my balance in the white wash. Next thing, I was tripping in ankle deep water. No, it was not a legit in and out, but gawd damn did it feel great, invigorating. Nothing wasted today. Everything worth it. From that moment on, the session had already been paid for.

            Then this older chick paddled out. We talked for a little bit, and then in the middle of conversation another sweet gem came though. The old me would have pumped down the line and cut it back, but not the new and improved me, Matthew the Aging Surfer, not at all. Nope. It was so natural to, once again, two-hand stall, slow it down, see the shoulder curl and start chandeliering over my head. I wasn’t deep but it was legit shampoo action. Same thing, I tried to doggy door it. I was leaning back hard on my tail to hold my balance as I punched through. Ahhh, I almost held it, but I fell on the inside again. Still, IT FELT SO GOOD! I never, ever, ever thought I’d ever come close to getting barreled, and a day like this, to come so close and at least get some coverup, a day like this is HUGE for my progression and to  just enhance my love for this beautiful art. It’s like I’m opening an untapped dimension in my surfing.

            I ended up drifting towards Rosecrans, where I got my biggest closeout bomb of the day. A guy who had seen me on it said, “Well that was kind of scary. It was like a perfect shot when you were under there.”

            “Yeah,” I said, “but I didn’t make it out. It was still fun to pull in, though.”

            Little by little, a few more people paddled out, but it wasn’t crowded at all. There was still enough room for everyone, and after two hours, when I left, the wind was still good. The waves were still breaking, and I ended up leaving a bunch of rides on the table.

OIL GLASS, WED 08JULY2015

Loc: El Porto, Rosecrans

Time: 0610-0740

Crew: Bri & Garr

Conditions: 3-4 FT+, glassy, overcast, low tide, dumpy

     Bri and I see Gary making it out to the lineup just south of Rosecrans, so we walk over and begin our warm up. “Look!” I say, as I see a wedgey left pop up. Gary’s on it, the only guy in the water between 30^th and 42^nd Street. He turns and goes. For Manhattan Beach, it’s as good as a small tube as you can ask for. Perfectly shouldered and round, no opportunity for turns, just pull in. He does, drives in the tube, and gets to the exit, but something goes wrong. The door shuts on him.

     When we paddle out to meet him, he says, “I saw it. I was almost out, and then my front foot slipped off the board.” Says his Lost Mini Driver was in the rafters too long, so the basecoat got oily. When he was waxing his board earlier, it was rubbing off the base. It happens.

     Meanwhile, the surf is consistent. Maybe a little bit more water, and it would be more rippable. Not ideal for longboards. There are fast sectiony lines, some hollow but closing out. A few corners are makeable if you’re good enough. The waves jack up and double as the bottom sucks out on the inside, a little treacherous, a lot of steep steps. Bri’s Becker isn’t ideal for today.

     The first half of the session is all glory. Gary and I go for the sets. Again, I would normally pass on the closers, but with Garr here, I push myself. It really does help your surfing to surf with those better than you.

     Some of my attempts are worthy. My Mini Driver covers so much distance when I pump. On one, I pump down a vertical line that’s jacking up, and then I pull in as the lip curls over. I get a glimpse in the tube, and then it runs away from me.

     Resurfacing, I second-guess myself. Did the wave really run away from me or did I bail too early? I had so much momentum. Maybe I should’ve just kept pumping and trusted my speed. I’ve also outran barrel sections before, too. Ahhhh, just shows how novice I am when it comes to round conditions.

     It’s a hard morning for Bri, but she’s trying. The surf is short, fast, and round, so it’s really hard for her to milk it like she usually does.

     The three of us fight the current. More surfers paddle out but get swept towards 42^nd. We’re in between Rosecrans and 34^th Street.

     Gary calls me into a left. Even though the lines are broken up today, there are a few gems. I see it has a shoulder on it. It’s fast. Popping up, I nearly purl. I expect the section to go hollow, another pull-in pincher, but the face opens up, spills, and holds. In a split second, I decide to bottom turn and rush a forehand snap. I pull it off. Redirecting down the line, I pump for more distance and then kickout. Bri and Garr smile back at me.

     After that, the session changes. The water gets even smoother. “Oil Glass,” says Gary. A small window opens despite the low tide, and the surf turns shouldery.

     A peak comes straight to Bri. She’s frozen, so I paddle over and take the right. Legit backhand snap. Towards the end of the session, I get another one just like it. Three single-shot waves, the initial left the best one.

     Back at the parking lot, we’re all stoked. The session ended up being better than expected, easily my best session since Rick’s camp trip. I needed this. If these conditions keep up, tomorrow should be even better with more swell and more water at first light. I’m on it.

Compared to all my sessions since June 16th, this morning's session covered the second most amount of distance, also tying my fastest wave at 9.6 mph.