OIL GLASS, WED 08JULY2015

Loc: El Porto, Rosecrans

Time: 0610-0740

Crew: Bri & Garr

Conditions: 3-4 FT+, glassy, overcast, low tide, dumpy

     Bri and I see Gary making it out to the lineup just south of Rosecrans, so we walk over and begin our warm up. “Look!” I say, as I see a wedgey left pop up. Gary’s on it, the only guy in the water between 30^th and 42^nd Street. He turns and goes. For Manhattan Beach, it’s as good as a small tube as you can ask for. Perfectly shouldered and round, no opportunity for turns, just pull in. He does, drives in the tube, and gets to the exit, but something goes wrong. The door shuts on him.

     When we paddle out to meet him, he says, “I saw it. I was almost out, and then my front foot slipped off the board.” Says his Lost Mini Driver was in the rafters too long, so the basecoat got oily. When he was waxing his board earlier, it was rubbing off the base. It happens.

     Meanwhile, the surf is consistent. Maybe a little bit more water, and it would be more rippable. Not ideal for longboards. There are fast sectiony lines, some hollow but closing out. A few corners are makeable if you’re good enough. The waves jack up and double as the bottom sucks out on the inside, a little treacherous, a lot of steep steps. Bri’s Becker isn’t ideal for today.

     The first half of the session is all glory. Gary and I go for the sets. Again, I would normally pass on the closers, but with Garr here, I push myself. It really does help your surfing to surf with those better than you.

     Some of my attempts are worthy. My Mini Driver covers so much distance when I pump. On one, I pump down a vertical line that’s jacking up, and then I pull in as the lip curls over. I get a glimpse in the tube, and then it runs away from me.

     Resurfacing, I second-guess myself. Did the wave really run away from me or did I bail too early? I had so much momentum. Maybe I should’ve just kept pumping and trusted my speed. I’ve also outran barrel sections before, too. Ahhhh, just shows how novice I am when it comes to round conditions.

     It’s a hard morning for Bri, but she’s trying. The surf is short, fast, and round, so it’s really hard for her to milk it like she usually does.

     The three of us fight the current. More surfers paddle out but get swept towards 42^nd. We’re in between Rosecrans and 34^th Street.

     Gary calls me into a left. Even though the lines are broken up today, there are a few gems. I see it has a shoulder on it. It’s fast. Popping up, I nearly purl. I expect the section to go hollow, another pull-in pincher, but the face opens up, spills, and holds. In a split second, I decide to bottom turn and rush a forehand snap. I pull it off. Redirecting down the line, I pump for more distance and then kickout. Bri and Garr smile back at me.

     After that, the session changes. The water gets even smoother. “Oil Glass,” says Gary. A small window opens despite the low tide, and the surf turns shouldery.

     A peak comes straight to Bri. She’s frozen, so I paddle over and take the right. Legit backhand snap. Towards the end of the session, I get another one just like it. Three single-shot waves, the initial left the best one.

     Back at the parking lot, we’re all stoked. The session ended up being better than expected, easily my best session since Rick’s camp trip. I needed this. If these conditions keep up, tomorrow should be even better with more swell and more water at first light. I’m on it.

Compared to all my sessions since June 16th, this morning's session covered the second most amount of distance, also tying my fastest wave at 9.6 mph.