 |
| Taking a break during the second intermission before the third session |
Loc:
Churches
Time:
All Day
Conditions:
2-3 Occasional 4 FT, uncrowded, clean.
Board:
Motorboat Too & Zippifish
With spring break here, Bri finally has a
day off from both of her jobs today, so the Trestles area is the call. Even
though the surf forecast looks small, it’s truly our favorite place to surf.
Worst case, I’m bringing the Zippifish in case the surf is tiny. Occasional
three footers on Trestles-quality waves can be all you need for a day full of
fun.
Usually we’d be on the road at first light.
We sleep in a little, hitting the snooze button, finally rolling out of our
futon at 0600. It’s too easy to make excuses. Today’s excuse is that it’s a
rare day off for Bri, so why rush it? We may be missing the low tide window,
but it’s also nice to take our time, drink some coffee, and leave at our own
pace.
Of course, I regret this decision when we
hit Orange County on the 405 South. Traffic. At least the carpool lane has us
at a steady crawl.
When we reach the Basilone exit at about
0730, we look off to our right and see some small waves breaking at Lowers.
Middles has some long lines, showing signs that it’s not giving any classic
A-frame peaks, which are hard to come by nowadays—Middles not Lowers.
There’s a parking space left in front of
Churches. The tide’s up at mid level. Looks like a lot of water on the surface,
but waves are still breaking. My buddy Klaude had told me that today might be
crowded with spring break and Good Friday, but there are only about half a
dozen longboarders out in front of us. Though small, the surf is living up to
Surfline’s report. Clean three-foot rights are rolling through, and, best of
all, it looks rippable enough for my Motorboat Too. Even though the surf looks
decent here, I already know that we’re going to push it a little further north
to the edge of Churches. Something about getting on a good cobblestone left,
especially if you’re a goofy footer, that’s too good to pass up on.
Too bad most of the crowd today had the
same idea. Surfers used to like crowding the top of the wave at Churches, but
now it seems that Upper Churches is the new primary spot. Six surfers aren’t
too many heads to deal with, but on a smaller day like today, it can be enough
to annoy.
Bri and I sit wide south of the small group
at first. My first wave is a right. At barely three feet, sliding down the face
of such a clean Trestles wave is still invigorating. Just yesterday I had
surfed some punchy Manhattan Beach beachbreak peaks, but I just love this spot
so much more because of the shape. I bottom turn and get a top turn off the lip
and then transition into a backhand wrap. The rest of the wave runs away and
softens up, offering a baby float section. Looks like the tide’s starting to
moosh it up, the water too deep on the rights.
Gradually, we work our way into the pack.
People start leaving. Now there’s more than enough room for everyone.
It’s all about the lefts now. The lefts run
all the way into the beginning of Middles where it’s a little shallower. I can’t
get more than two turns on my rides, but I’m guaranteed at least a solid
opening carve and a decent finishing maneuver. Since my last session here was
on the Zippi, it feels good to open up on one of my legit shortboards. Arcing
through my top turns, I feel the sharp accentuation when I whip the tail
around.
Even though we had shown up at about mid
tide, peaks still roll through consistently until about 0930. By 1000, Bri and
I are done. More people are out now, but the surf has gone inconsistent.
Back at the wagon, we keep our wetsuits on
but pull them down half way. We refill on some snacks and water and play cards
at one of the unoccupied picnic tables. An hour later, we rewax our boards and
get ready for the second session.
#
My wave of the day comes early on the
second session. Right after paddling out, a set-wave left comes my way. Just
like in the morning, I get a really strong arc on the top turn on a wave that’s
a little steeper than any ride this morning. Bri gets her wave of the day, too,
on a right. Some guy even backs out for her. I watch her head from behind the
wave going back and forth as she cuts back down the line.
Everything looks good for the second
session, but then things start to slow down. Also, the onshore wind starts to
pick up, and it’s knocking down the peaks into warbly two-foot lines. My
Motorboat Too turns ineffective. Like my previous all-day sessions, my energy
level drops down to zero. My hamstrings start cramping on the duckdives, so do
my triceps. I need calories, electrolytes, something! After an hour and a half,
we’re both done.
#
Bri decides to sit out on the third
session, and I can’t blame her. My eyes are beginning to get a little sunburned.
The outer layers of my eyeballs are starting to feel sticky every time I blink.
The thought of investing in surf sunglasses crosses my mind. Another reason why
I’m pushing it so hard today is because we’re also topping the day off with
AYCE sushi, so you can bet your ass I’m gonna earn it.
I switch to the Zippifish for the last
session. It’s the right board for what the conditions are doing, and it’s also
perfect for how tired I am.
Changing things up, I start at the bottom
of the wave, and of course, nothing really comes my way. I end up at the top
and then even a little further just short of Upper Churches.
The Zippifish is a straight up cheater
board. It’s just too easy. A couple of strokes, and I’m already popping up. It’s
amazing how the right board can just change the whole session. The surf went
from mediocre to rippable again. Even on the shoulders that are mooshing out, I
bottom turn and just crouch low on the board to still force some backside
turns. Meanwhile, guys all around me are on potato chip thrusters, pumping hard
through the flat sections. Just not the right boards for today.
A few plus-size wave come through that make
riding the fish a little challenging. I snag some lefts and set myself up for
some cutbacks, but since the tide is bottoming out, the twin-fin setup gets a
little squirrely on me. By 1600, I’m done. I can’t surf anymore. I spot Bri on
the sand. I belly ride the white wash to shore and head back with her.
#
An hour and a half into sushi, the waiters
keep asking us if we’re done. They want us to leave. This Friday evening, Zenko
Sushi is packed with people waiting to be seated. Yellow tail comes in first.
Unagi a close second, followed by the mackerel. When we leave, we’re not even in
a food coma.
The surf wasn’t great, but it was accurate
from what Surfline had predicted. All we needed was three feet and we even got
a little more than that. Just twelve hours ago we were showing up to surf.
Twelve hours later, sunburned with sore back muscles and full of sushi, Bri’s
day off was a success.
