Loc:
Manhattan Beach, 26th Street
Time:
0645-0945
Crew:
KK & Bri
Conditions:
2-3 Occasional 4 FT, crowded, rippable.
Board:
Zippifish
Since the surf looks small from shore, I
whip out the Zippifish. I’d say the surf is up just a notch. A new windswell,
definitely offering something for today.
It’s when I reach the lineup that I realize
how punchy the waves are and how dumpy it is. I catch a left, pump twice, and
kick out before it yawns and chomps down. Uh oh, I’m thinking. I should have
brought a different board.
A lot of people are backing out, not because
it’s gnarly but because we can tell that most of the waves are closeouts. In
the distance, I overhear Roy and Ross talking. “Tide’s too low,” one of them
says. They’re right. Yet, there’s an occasional corner that offers a turn or
two.
It’s not until the tide fills in when the
surf gets dramatically better. Around 0845, the higher tide makes the walls
back off and turns them into rippable peaks. Bri and I drift with the current
and end up surfing 30th.
My Zippi’s a little too buoyant for the
conditions, but I still manage some critical backhand snaps and some sloppy
forehand carves. It definitely makes up for yesterday.
Klaude makes a late appearance and so does
Toru for his usual thirty-minute heat. Toru flies down the line on his Don
Kadowaki quad, which is a template of the Lost Weekend Warrior. Klaude’s
surfing has progressed, too, as I watch him throw out a bucket on a small
inside left.
We trade waves for another hour into 0945.
Bri leaves a little early to change at the car. She’s still beat from Friday. I
hang a little longer but say bye to Klaude and head back to the whip to meet
Bri.
Even with the wrong boards, our grovelers,
Bri and I still had a lot of fun. Session redeemed from yesterday’s no show and
flatness. Manhattan Beach resurrected. Glad we paddled out.
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