Conditions: offshore, dumpy, 2 Ft.
Board: Catch Surf Skipper
Last Friday
I actually trunked it. Same spot and everything from the session before.
Because of the Santa Anas and the recent warmth in water temp, I thought I’d be
safe in boardshorts.
I
paddled out and felt like a G for the first half hour. For the next half hour I
felt like a G string. I was fucking cold. Man, yeah, it’s not the time for
trunks, but I still milked the tail end of that little combo swell we had and made
the best of it. I didn’t get any barrels, just pulling in and practicing for the
real deal.
Yesterday
I hit the surf, same spot at about 0800. I surfed for about an hour, once
again, this time in a full suit, and…it really wasn’t that great. The offshores
were still here, but the NW swell was just weak sauce. Also, every foamie and
longboarder was back on it as if it were summer again. I couldn’t believe how
packed it was. Regardless, I got one take-home wave that really made the
session. It was a set wave that popped out of nowhere, and it actually had a nice,
tapered shoulder on it. I paddled in, bottom turned, and two-hand stalled right
away on my forehand. In my peripheral I saw some longboarders going for the
shoulder, but I had to hope that they saw me first.
I
stalled and waited for the lip to curl. I was in there. It was like slow
motion, the wave felt like it lasted even though it had to have only been a few
seconds, but I was in there, in the small curl getting shampoo coverup. Then
came the moment when I should doggy-door it, but I chose to hang on until
oblivion.
When
I churned up on the inside, I saw the longboarders had long backed off on the wave.
I’m glad there were no accidents and that I didn’t get snaked.
At
the end, at the showers, even though I didn’t know anyone, I had some nice
little conversations in passing. Everyone, people, even me, we’re all just out
here trying to get “ours” on a weekday. Despite the lackluster surf, we still
want it; we still want to get wet.
