Shan wanted to surf at Hammerland this morning. I wasn’t sure if he’d show up, so I told him I’d be at 26th. I had to go back, especially after yesterday morning. Cheryl said she would be there at eight o’clock, and Klaude said he’d come by to hang out at seven.
I got there early enough to park in the exact same place as yesterday. There was a bit of wind, and I expected it to make the surf funky. I sat in my car until there was more light out. Rick called me and told me that Porto was blown out, but he also said that his brother and some of his friends were at 26th. I met Rick’s bro, John, and his two friends, Dave and Mark, at the bottom of the hill. We paddled out right in front of the tower.
The surf was choppy, the tide was pretty high, and the sections were fast. There appeared to be some workable shoulders, but the speed of them would make them difficult rides. Some of the sets coming through were head high and bigger, so I had a rough time paddling out. It was also overcast, so I began to mentally defeat myself. Duckdiving was a bitch.
Once we got to the line we were able to get some messy corners. The first ones I got didn’t hold any shape. A plus set came, and I was in good position on the right shoulder, but the wave was too fast, and I was off balance trying to pop up with all that speed. I had one decent left where I was able to get a turn on it. My potential wave of the day was a left. As I bottom turned and came back up to carve the lip, John dropped in on me. I dropped in on him earlier, so it wasn’t a big deal, but his friends were laughing and agreed that “The Amadors” will snake you.
The inside. After each wave I dreaded the possibility of taking some sets on the head. I got lucky a couple times, but I mostly got worked. It started to get a little better because the wind started to die down a little bit. The three amigos got some pretty good rides. It was really humbling surfing with people better than me. I guess I’ve been surfing so much on my own that I began to believe that I was pretty good. I had a shitty session compared to those guys.
They decided to leave, but I wanted to end my session with one good wave. That short Asian chick was there again. She was talking to some dude that was next to me in the line up. I seen her earlier, ripping on some fuckin’ rights just north of us. A rogue wave came out of no where. I turned around to paddle for it, changed my mind, then I backed out a little too late and got sucked down. That was a little embarrassing, especially since my friends left I had no one to laugh about it with. I waited again. Another rogue wave came that was building far on the outside. I saw it before everyone else and duck dived under it. I have no idea how this wave ended up snagging me, but it did. It felt like I was doing back flips underneath the water, it was so confusing. When I popped up I didn’t even know which way the fucking shore was. Someone was on a wave right by me. Guess who it was? The fucking chick. She was on an overhead left just carving the shit out of it. She chose her line wisely, stayed on the open face, and turned to continue where it opened up again. That fucking bitch. Okay, she’s not a bitch. In fact, I’ve never spoken to her before, but I was fucking jealous. I said to myself, “How the fuck am I getting my fucking ass kicked so fucking bad, and yet this little chicky wicky over here is fuckin’ tearin’ it up!?” The answer was … because I still suck.
After that debacle I boned out. I turned to look at the sea. It definitely got better from when I paddled out. It wasn’t perfect, it was still choppy, and there was still a little wind, but the potential was still there for some fun rides. I was tired. My rotator cuffs were sore, and I was over it for the time being.
Klaude later called and told me he was at 26th, but that he couldn’t find me. Of course, Shan and Cheryl didn’t show. On the walk back to my car I felt frustrated, like I still didn’t deserve to call myself a surfer yet. I guess I just need more time. I’m gonna rest up, and save my strength for tomorrow. I hope I’ll have a better sesh.
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