Beater Beatings

Bruh...so I did end up paddling out after the last post. I couldn't help myself. I was already having myself a loser day, being unproductive, and I wasn't in the mood to write, so I headed to El Porto for an afternoon session. Surprisingly, it was damn near offshore with just a light variable wind. It was a hot and humid day, and the water was crystal clear and glassy with a dropping tide. However, one major thing was missing...shape. Fuckin' A, I can't say it was flat, boring, or stagnant. In fact, the sets were pretty juicy and easily shoulder high. I don't know if it's just the south swell not hitting the South Bay right or bad sandbars, but, no matter how some waves looked like they had shoulders, they would just race and dump on the inside. I mean, straight up Dump Rider Crew status. Despite how printing the conditions were, it was hard to catch anything with a resemblance of a shoulder. Even the small in-between-set insiders were running away. My Beater, as fun as it is, can only do so much when the surf is closing out. But I was on a Beater, wasn't I, a fucking sponge. So I hit the "fuck-it button" and started going for glory. Yeah, I was going for everything--the bombs, the closeouts. It was nice knowing that I was on a board of no consequence to my weathered face. And even when I had to bail under the lip, sinking the Beater is no problem, but an awkward wipeout is still an awkward wipeout, so I had to take care not to break my neck on the sand.

My best wave was a right that actually stayed open, but of course some guy had to drop in on me. Then a chick dropped in on him and was like, "Oh, I'm so sorry!" And the dude was like, "No worries." Meanwhile, I'm thinking, Really? Where's the consideration for the first guy who got bagged?

Well, I don't want to be that guy who gets into fights in the lineup, but sometimes I feel like I'm justified to talk some shit. Yet, I'm was a surfing a purple Beater that has a unicorn and a rainbow on the bottom of it. I guess I wouldn't take anyone seriously who's on such a surf craft.

So now I'm sitting here at Churches, having been skunked during the choppy morning sesh. But upon returning from My breakfast at Sonic, I see that conditions have cleaned up. The wind has died and the chop is gone. Aside from a high tide, conditions are pristine. Now I just have to decide if I'm riding the Beater or Puddle Jumper.