2017-1 First Sesh of the Year

It was overcast and small. Even though the wind direction didn't look too bad, the incoming low presh created weird rips in the water, and then there was also the lack of swell. Because of that, I opted to shuttle me and Bri to Porto where there'd be the most chance for size, albeit not very much. To no surprise, we pulled in to a spot to find Rick, Manny, and Gary right next to us. The usual morning squad, staying true to their cretan surf habits.

Manny said he was paddling out no matter what. As I changed, Rick pulled out his board for a parking lot wax job, so I expected him to join.

While Bri changed, an SUV drove past, its passengers staring at her ass as it entered and left the lot. On the way to the sand, another guy walking past also had a staring problem, which sparked my first what-the-fuck-are-you-looking-at? of the year.

Manny paddled out first and sat on what looked to be too close on the inside, but his positioning proved to be wise. The little peaks sprouted up on the outside, mooshed out, and then reformed, creating these fast little wedges and plenty of them. I mean, the inside was consistent. I'm not trying to oversell it, and to be fair most of the rides were short. But as crappy as the surf was, we had a lot of fun.

The three of us had the surf to ourselves for about an hour. Still, Garr and Rick passed on the sesh. Then the late risers arrived, sitting right on us.

As far as waves of the day, I had a lot of fun man-turn attempts, trying to pulling off some layback carves on the steep inside faces. Of course, I couldn't ride out of them. Manny gave me a few hoots. Later, Jimmy and Juan showed up, telling me they saw my efforts from the parking lot.

“Hey, Matt,” Jimmy said, “there's more flow to your surfing now.”

I can appreciate a compliment, but at the same time it was a nice realization to how I'm a novice compared to guys who've been surfing since (at least) the eighties.

Rick and Garr took off. I fed the meter for another hour at 0830. Ended up surfing almost 3 hours. It was a great way to start the new year, good or bad conditions.