I'm 40 years old, and I've been surfing consistently for about 15 years. I know that's not a lot; I was a late bloomer, but I'm still absolutely in love with it. I write this not for monetary gain or notoriety (like that would ever happen) but just to express my love for this art we call surfing (art not sport) and how I balance it in my everyday life. Welcome, I hope you find it enjoyable.
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
AFTERNOON WAVES
I drove by at about 4:30 p.m., and it sucked. There was a lot of wind, so the water was choppy. It was about 3 ft. and crumbly. I watched the water for about a 1/2 hr., contemplating whether to jump in or not. I saw a couple guys get some good rides on a couple shoulders, but most people were riding close outs. Hopefully it will be better tomorrow.
Labels:
el porto,
el segundo
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment