I’m going through an extremely difficult time in my life right now, but I’ll write this anyway. …
26th at 0630. It was dark, and a lot of high school students were on the shore ready to paddle out. I went a little further south of the tower in search of my own peak. The water was surprisingly warm and easy. From the shore it looked like there were a couple quick corners. The tide was a little low, but I expected it to get better, at least by the end of an hour.
There were 4 foot faces that were easy to paddle into, but they all came in as a walled oceanic mass that violently dumped onto the shallow bottom. As usual, I still paddled for them anyway. Despite my hopes of there being some good shape towards the end of the session, the closeouts continued. It was dangerous on the inside. It was so shallow that I got worked by the jaws-like waves while trying to paddle back to the line. I got pitched over the lip on a bunch of waves. I got rolled on the sand bottom, bonked my head on the sand, and even hit my board that was floating above me.
Shan met up with me, and we both agreed on the shitty conditions. “We need better sand bars,” he said. Well, last weekend 26th was really good, so I guess it’s just hit and miss some times. The sky was gray with no sunshine even when we left. I may check it out in the afternoon.
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