I'm 40 years old, and I've been surfing consistently for about 15 years. I know that's not a lot; I was a late bloomer, but I'm still absolutely in love with it. I write this not for monetary gain or notoriety (like that would ever happen) but just to express my love for this art we call surfing (art not sport) and how I balance it in my everyday life. Welcome, I hope you find it enjoyable.
Friday, October 15, 2010
THE GREAT DEPRESSION PART I: THUR 10/14/2010
I wanted to try something different, and I wanted to get out of the water a little earlier, so I gave El Porto a shot. It was dark; 0600 is just way too early to paddle out now; it’s too dark. I paddled just north of 45th. When the sun came up I could see everything a lot more clearer, except that it was extremely overcast. This is going to be a short entry. Every wave that I caught didn’t have any shape and was a close out. It was frustrating. Unfulfilled, I left after about an hour and a half. As I was leaving I saw people just north of 45th getting some better shoulders. I was in the wrong spot.
Labels:
26th St.,
el porto,
el segundo,
surf
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