I’m a surf fiend, or at least I’m turning into one. It’s pretty bad now. When I was at the gym I couldn’t help but think of being on a wave, a good wave, and how I just wanted that feeling, that rush. I rushed it to the beach at about 5:00 PM. I even scored free parking on 45th St. Even though the conditions were shitty, the rides were more enjoyable than the morning session. The sections were really long and crumbly, but if you caught it right on the shoulder, then there might be a small chance that the wave would open up for you. I ran into two officers that I was stationed with in Egypt, Lieutenants McGowan and Nelson. We bullshitted about the soldiers that we kept in touch with and what everyone is doing nowadays.
There were a couple rides that opened up a little, but not quite enough. The shape was still very poor. I wasn’t able to do any backhand snaps. Towards the end of the hour there was a long lull, and I didn’t even catch a wave in. Still unfulfilled, I walked back to my car.
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