Klaude had checked the surf around first light and said it
as too swampy. Figures, since the tide swing was so high. So when I got off of
work, I could have called it a lay day and maybe went to the gym, but the cams
looked worth a look in person. On the way there, I saw surfers out at Shitpipe,
and waves were breaking on the inside. At Hammerland, a lone surfer sat on the
left. More surf signs appeared as I approached 45th through Chevron’s
wired fence. Yes it was overcast and lightly drizzling, but fuck it. Why not
paddle out?
Reaching the sand I saw the surf was much smaller than the
day before, but it was still worthy. Instead of walled lines the sections were
makeable with shape, a few even offering some almond slots.
With a light, I paddled out north of 45th to sit
in between two surfers. At first I got the looks casting me as an invasive
prick, but I maneuvered around them and never got in the way, showing etiquette
and sharing. Whenever I took a wave, it was because I either had priority or no
one else was in position.
Since I let Klaude reclaim his center find from the Futures
he let me borrow, I surfed on the quads once more. The surf was more spilling
and rippable than hollow, and I was pleasantly surprised with how the quads
felt. With the extra speed, I rode out of my layback carves with more fluidity
and ease. What a huge difference speed makes for maneuvers. Also, I’m realizing
that since my Puddle Jumper isn’t made for performance, it never did offer the
kind of surfing for critical maneuvers. I realize that now after looking at my
surf stats speedwise. While my other buddies were posting faster MPH, I was
getting more waves and turns because my board is more of a fun shape that’s
meant to be a wave-catching magnet, especially in groveler conditions. But…the
quads really did help me go faster.
A few waves did offer tiny barrels, but I didn’t perform
well on these. I missed a slotting left by not putting in that one extra stroke
to get in it, a lesson that my brother had lectured me on years ago. I was just
so focused on what I was planning to do once I dropped in instead of being in
the moment. Bad move, but all I could do was smile. I’m so blessed to live in
El Segundo and be near surf. It’s not Trestles, but when there is local surf,
it’s kind of a local paradise. With my recent work shift that allows me these
late-morning windows for a session, my quality of life has greatly increased. I
can go on and on, but I’ll cut it short.
Riches indeed don’t need to be measured by money. At least
right now, I can gladly say that I’m spending as much time as I can in the
water, and that just makes me so happy.
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