2017-5 Storm Surf

I got off a wet morning at work and checked the cams during my shuttle ride home. My internet was spotty, but I could tell that there were waves at Porto and a few heads out. They say not to surf after a rain, but some stubborn surfers say that it's usually the first rains that are the worst for catching a case of the nasties.

When I showed up to Porto, the rain had already stopped, and before me were consistent, offshore, storm peaks. Surfline reported it at 2-3 FT, but it was easily an extra foot in the flesh.

I was stoked. I high-kneed my way through the shore towards the water. A pack sat on 42nd, but the waves were scattered as far as the pier and the jetty. I couldn't believe it was this good, and for as many people that were out there, the semi-vacant lot reflected a light weekday crowd.

I sat on 45th with another guy while the pack stayed south of me. Even though the surf was consistent, a lot of the waves ran away too fast. My first two waves of the sesh were my best, rights. I bottom turned and got two backhand hacks but later realized that I really should have pulled in on the right hollow shoulder. My next wave was bigger, the turns more critical, but I still questioned if I surfed it right.

More guys started to paddle over towards me, so I moved more north towards the rocks, and then a nice outside right came my way. I told myself I'd pull in, but I ended up barrel dodging because the wave was so big.

After beating myself up over it, I made a commitment to myself to pull in next time.

Over the last week, I've been rewatching a lot of tutorials on surf tips. One was about backside tube riding, grabbing the rail to steer and put yourself into the right position. Back in Indo, my brother has told me to “pig dog” and stall without further explanation.

On the next rights, that weren't complete closeouts, I grabbed rail and held my line, purposely trying to drive for as much distance as possible. As usual, I didn't make it out, but I felt like I was making better progress, like I was at least traveling a bit further.

I blew a left that looked like a small easy barrel. All I could do was laugh.

The sun broke through the clouds a few times, but the sky was mostly overcast. As the tide got lower, the surf started closing out more. I walked away not a victor but not completely defeated either.