MANHATTAN PIER: THURS 10/21/2010

    Al came down from Norcal, so we decided to check out Porto with Shan in the afternoon.  Despite the recent rain, Shan and I have been a little desperate for rain, and some shit infested bacteria wasn’t going to stop us.  Porto was horrible.  It was around one o’clock in the afternoon, the tide was low, and the wind was strong.  We then got free parking at Manhattan Beach and walked to the pier.  There were two paddle boarders out, and it looked a little better, but far from promising.  The sun was out, and it was getting warm.  It seemed like a good idea at the time, but we all were willing to get wet.

    We hiked back up the hill to change, but when we came back the two SUP’s and the sun were gone, and the waves looked like they got smaller.  Al was the only one in a wet suit.  We paddled out just south of the pier.  The waves were breaking really close to shore.  The wind created choppy surf and unpredictable scattered peaks.  We all got a couple waves, but none of quality.  Every time I was on a wave I was already nearing the shore by the time I got my bearings.  No one else was in the water at all.  We looked like a bunch of idiots out there.  We eventually paddled all the way next to the pier in hope to get some rights.  This was the best part of the session.  Even though the waves sucked, it filled me full of adrenaline to see the approaching waves building off of the pier, then eventually forming a right shoulder.  The waves were getting a little bit bigger.  I got one right off of the pier that opened up a little.  Because the tide was low, the waves were fast.  Right after I popped up, my board began to skip across the surface from all of the speed.  I regained my composure and got a couple carves before I stepped off the rail.  I tried the north side of the pier, and the shape was even shittier on that side. 

    I went back to the south side of the pier again, and Shan was heading back to his car.  Al and I went for a suicide drop on a walled right that came in.  Both of us got pitched over and obliterated simultaneously. 

    The session was over.  Bacteria water trapped in my sinuses, we walked back to the car un stoked.  Al kept asking me why I love this place, and how it’s possible that there are ever any waves here.  The last time Al surfed the south bay was about this time last year, and that day wasn’t too great.  Al has never seen the potential of this place.  I told him that this place gets good … when it’s good.