Al drove off to Trestles, and I stayed local to check out Porto in the AM. I got to the lot at first light, and the waves were small and crumbling on shore. There was also a hellacious wind. I text Shan and advised that he keep counting sheep.
I headed back out to the lot at about 5:00 PM. The waves were still breaking close to shore, but there was a little size, maybe 4 - 5 ft. The shape was horrible, and everything looked like a quick ride. It was awfully messy with a lot of chop. It reminded me of the pier session, but this was more consistent with a little better shape.
There were about 5 guys out with me in front of 45th. The sun was low on the horizon, shining for the first time in days. I didn’t expect much, and I didn’t have much time because I had to pick up Lauren from work. Right when I got to the line I caught a left that didn’t have much shape to it. After that it was nothing but frustration under a beautiful sunset. The rest of the time I was scratching out on waves. What really surprised me was that every 5 minutes a rogue set of waves would break really far out on the outside, much too far to paddle for if you were at the line up. At least they weren’t dumpy, and even though they were big, they would feather out at the top and start to crumble.
My second and last wave of the day came from one of these sets. I caught a right that surprisingly opened up a little. The section ended up reforming on the inside before the shore. As the wave jacked up I was able to get a little spray off the top before it closed out. After I hit the lip I was racing over the shallow sand until I stepped off the rail.
The session wasn’t great, but I felt that it was a precursor of better things to come. And even though I only caught two waves, I think that they were two of the better looking waves of that evening.
No comments:
Post a Comment