Unfortunately, I am writing this entry a day late, and I’ve surfed two more sessions since this one, so I really have to pick my brain as to what happened. I didn’t surf on Thursday. I drove down to Porto Thursday morning, and it was really small. I went back home to surf another day.
On Friday morning I got to the lot at about 6:40 A.M. The pink and orange lit sky reminded me of the Tequila Sunrises that I used to kill at the bar. It was a beautiful morning (again), but there was some significance because there were already people in the line up, and they paddled out when it was still dark. Me … I usually like to at least wait until I can see what’s going on out there.
That morning was a solo session. I forgot what happened to Shan, and J. wanted to go to Trestles, but I had other obligations to take care of that day, so I had to stay local. I paddled out in between the stacks and 45th. There’s this long haired, light skinned, Asian dude that’s always out there every morning. I don’t know his name, but I should get it because we always run into each other and talk. He always has geisha style sun block (like Klaude’s). I’m just glad that the guy doesn’t have a grudge against me. Once upon a time, many moons ago, he was going for a perfect wave, and I was in his way on the inside. I tried to paddle to get around him, but I ended up right in front of him, and my arm caught his leash, thus preventing him from his wave. He was fuckin’ pissed- I would be too. I guess he’s forgotten about that, and I’m glad that I don’t have to get on my knees and bob his mushroom for forgiveness.
We talked about how the conditions were perfect, but there just wasn’t enough swell. He was right. There was barely any wind, the water was clear, it was sunny, the tide was at a good level, but the waves were just too small, or the plus sets closed out.
After about an hour, things got a little better. The waves weren’t big; they were about three feet, but it started to clean up, and there was enough of a little shoulder to carve a little before they closed. If you know me and my new fondness of going right, you won’t be surprised that I got a lot of good practice waves to get more spray on the back side. It was really fun. On a lot of waves I was able to pump, and try my best to gouge the lip. I was even hacking it at that critical point where the wave is already curling. It felt good. I felt as if with a little more practice I could almost do a 180 by the end of the top turn. Of course, I’m not there yet, but I tried my best to sell what I was doing, like over exaggerating my power stances at the end of the maneuver. I probably looked silly since the waves were small.
I just have a dream one day to be a stand out local surfer at that break. I want to hit the water and have people know who I am. Wow … did I just sound like a total douche bag? I hope not. That’s really far away anyway. Besides, I’m still on a beginner thruster. Before I get to ride a true short board, I might have one more intermediate thruster before I ride the real deal.
As I left when it was close to the nine o’clock hour, I took a good look back at the line up from the shower. The shape was getting a lot better, and there were more scattered clean peaks. It’s amazing how the water can change on you sometimes. FIN.
No comments:
Post a Comment