Rick hit me up in the morning and in the afternoon. He told me that Porto was going off all day, and that I needed to get my ass over there. Unfortunately, since I have been back home I’ve been letting myself go: eating out, not exercising, eating too much ice cream, and doing heathen-like activities. I dedicated the day to handling my business and being productive. At about 4:30 P.M. I got the itch to get wet. I grabbed all my shit, loaded up the outback, and found parking right there on 45th St. Jon #2 was there already parked right in front of me. We had some small talk and exchanged numbers- woohoo, another surf buddy! I text Shan and Dais and told them that Porto looked fun. The wind was up, but I was definitely able to tell that it must have been really good earlier. There were still a lot of waves. The sandbar in front of the tanks seemed to produce a good peak, but we decided to paddle out in front of 45th. It was a little choppy, and some of the waves were walled up. Despite this, some big set waves broke on the outside, and some of them had shoulders. They broke pretty far from the line and really unexpected; they were pretty big at about six feet. I ate shit on at least three waves. I was trying to get the outsiders, but I took off too late on some of them. The steepness of the drop, and speed just sent me too fast and set me up for a purl or wipe out. There were still some waves that I was able to snag. I caught a really good right which was a very long ride. I bottom turned, hit the lip, carved, and did this all the way to shore. The inside was horrendous. I got my ass kicked every time I had to paddle back out to the line. It was really consistent on the inside; the incoming waves violently yanked my board from my grip. I caught another right that was pretty walled up, big, and had an open shoulder on it. Instead of going down the line, I thought about the paddle back, so instead of hitting the lip, I just went over it and paddled back to the line. I guess that was kind of a waste of a good wave, but I really didn’t want to deal with getting worked on the inside. I caught a big left where all I did was go down the line. It was definitely a session where getting the drop and staying on the face of the wave was good enough. It was really big with a lot of phantom chops, so it wasn’t the time to pull off anything technical.
It was still a good session. I love the feeling I get when I see that outside set coming my way, when it’s building up, when you know without a doubt that it’s gonna be rideable. My heart sinks, I get in position, and I go for it.
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