I can’t remember the last time when there was shitty surf for almost a week straight. I got free parking on Highland Ave. at the butt crack of dawn. It was a wet morning. I didn’t expect many people to be out, but there was still a good crowd of surfers trying to get theirs. I paddled out before 0700 caught nothing but close outs. Klaude and Dais showed up, maybe an hour later. I was hoping that the presence of good friends and good company would bring some good luck waves our way. Well, it was an equally frustrating morning for all of us.
It was gloomy, and there weren’t any waves that came our way with any shape. We saw guys south of us getting barreled on the fast waves, but they were so fast that no one made it out of the barrel. These conditions are putting me in a weird funk. I think I’m actually taking a break from surfing. Maybe I need to just walk away, give the ocean its time, then come back and see if she is ready to give me some good waves.
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