I'm 40 years old, and I've been surfing consistently for about 15 years. I know that's not a lot; I was a late bloomer, but I'm still absolutely in love with it. I write this not for monetary gain or notoriety (like that would ever happen) but just to express my love for this art we call surfing (art not sport) and how I balance it in my everyday life. Welcome, I hope you find it enjoyable.
Monday, July 4, 2011
A Barney in Bali--Day 26, 03JULY2011 SUN
The Morning Baggage:
I go to bed at a decent time. It’s a little after ten, I know I’ll have enough rest, and I’ll meet Randy at Dunkin’ Donuts on time.
I wake up lying in my bed, it’s still dark out, and I tell myself to look at my watch to see what time it is. I don’t know how, but it seems like all I do is blink, and now there’s full blown light entering my room. Motherfucker! It’s 0650, my body’s not doing the natural alarm thing as expected.
After getting all my shit together, I go to the gas station first. Instead of making the right turn where I’ve been missing my brother’s directions, I make a left, and another left. Fuckin’ A, I find the shortcut; it’s a small moment of triumph. Traffic is light since it’s Sunday morning, and I’m dumping my throttle the whole way to Dunkin’ Donuts. I slow down, take a look, and Randy’s bike’s not there. On to Balangan. I know I keep on saying it, but each day I feel more and more confident on the moped, and I’m taking more risks. Instead of hesitating, I’m gassing it in the opposite lane and passing cars, just moments before vehicles pass me head-on. It’s kind of unnecessary, maybe even a little stupid, but riding a motorbike here has been an experience itself with its own forms of progression.
Randy’s sitting at Froggy’s. He says he had a late start as well, and that he’s only been there for fifteen minutes. It’s a beautiful day. There’s no wind, and the sun shines down on us where we’re sitting. From there we have a serious talk to start the morning. We talk about what’s going on in his life right now, and I get my reasons for leaving his home out in the open. It all leads to us discussing the shortcomings of our personalities. I don’t want to speak on Randy’s behalf because . . . well, this is kind of personal, so in respect, I’ll just speak from my experience alone.
Living on Maui with my grandparents, I had an uncle that assumed we were trying to “de-throne” him. He was always over protective of our grandparents, thinking that we were trying to take advantage of them. I only had to deal with it for four years, but Randy was under his influence since age five. My uncle was controlling, and I lived life walking on eggshells every time he was around. Home life during high school was never stable. It’s either I was on his good side, or I was being scolded about something. I came home to notes on my door with threats about being kicked out because I’m not helping around the house, or I’d come upstairs for dinner with a cold piece of chicken waiting for me on my dinner plate, and then the ridiculing began as I ate.
I was never physically abused; the damage was all psychological. I’m struggling to find the words with how controlling he was. I was being policed all the time for all my actions. His ideal nephew would be one who didn’t have a life outside of helping my grandfather with the cattle, all day on the weekends, and every day after school. On top of that, I was to clean the fucking house, a six bedroom house every weekend all by myself, and that’s not including all the yard work outside of our house and empty lot next door. I remember he put his hand under the cushion of the couch one day. When he pulled out his hand, it was dusty. He asked me if I was cleaning. I said yes. Then he said, “You’re cleaning is like shit!” I was in ninth grade.
Naturally, I didn’t want to be home. My escapes were school, cruising on Front St., hanging out with a bad crowd, experimenting with drugs, drinking at the beach at night, and just doing the wrong things. If I wasn’t around, he’d get pissed, but it was all because of him, so it was a vicious cycle.
I was finally kicked out during my senior year, or should I say that I came home on a late morning to find another one of his motivational and inspiring notes on my door, telling me to get the fuck out of the house after I graduate. That was the routine . . . wait for him to come home and get the verbal version of the note. I left, my aunt Elsie and my uncle Tim took me in; I’ll always love them for that.
I have personal issues, and I’ve known it for the longest time. I’m a control freak, and sometimes I hurt the ones I love with this part of my personality. Everything has to be done a certain way, I’m always thinking ten steps ahead, ready to correct something that hasn’t even gone wrong yet. Only recently have I finally realized that, as much as I hate my uncle, I’ve become like him. I guess sometimes, against our wills, we become the things that oppress us.
Also, I had the world’s greatest grandparents. My grandfather raised cattle even before I was born, and Randy and I were always his little helpers. As young men, we were his grown helpers. All of my best memories of him, lessons of life, fatherly influences, they all took place on those days after school, and on the weekends. He had seven different pastures. We’d drive past Honolua Bay on a daily basis to give feed, fix fence, fix a water line, maintain the corral, or to just check on the cows. I can see my grandfather now. The rich, orange, Maui soil coats his jeans and flannel. We’re crouched at the side of his work truck for shade. He takes off his blue construction helmet and tells me to take a break. We sit on the grass, and he hands me his red Coleman thermos for a drink before taking a drink for himself. He lectures me on the importance of breaks and not doing everything at once. “Little by little,” he says. We finish our work and drive back to Napili. The truck shakes, the bottomless pit of tools in the cab rattles the whole drive, and the sun’s low over Kapalua as we take the lower road home.
My grandfather passed away from cancer after I moved back to Los Angeles with my mom. My uncle pushed me away from home, reducing the time I had with my grandfather. Those days with him were limited, I didn’t now, and I’ll never get them back. Not a day goes by that I don’t think about him; his memory still makes my eyes water.
All that being said, Randy and I talked about forgiveness, and maybe I need to have the official man-to-man talk with him in order to get some kind of closure. I haven’t talked to him since my grandma‘s funeral, and he probably doesn’t feel like he’s done anything wrong, but I’m carrying the baggage anyway. I’ve been trying to change, it’s not easy, but maybe making my resentments known to him can at least help me move on.
Peanut Butter Jelly Time:
It’s a morning filled with our own stories from years ago. Ghosts are resurrected and summoned, and old memories I’ve stashed away are relived. It’s a deep morning, too deep, so we get ready for a good surf to capitalize on removing the morning weight. I decide to bareback it to get some sun on my skin.
I’ve said this before, but once again, it’s even smaller than the last time I said, “It’s the smallest day I’ve seen at Balangan yet.” The high tide has the smaller waves breaking closer to shore. The bigger sets are closing out, so we decide to catch the smaller ones which actually have shape.
Mostly everyone is at the top of the wave, so we have the inside to ourselves. To our surprise, we’re catching fun little two foot rides (Randy scale). No, not throaty, vertical drops but shoulders to turn on for a change. It’s a playful morning. I mess around, walk the nose longboard style to keep momentum, and even do a couple failed catwalk spins on my board.
Way out on the ocean, there are a couple boats. There are a couple plastic bottles in the distance. It’s a shame to have such a beautiful place with random trash floating around, I think to myself. I finish catching a wave and paddle back out. I see a plastic bottle, some wrappers, trash, and then trails of an oily brown substance floating about. I paddle further and realize that a swarm of jellyfish are feeding on the trash. Immediately, I’m stung in different places simultaneously: my arms, my leg, my bicep.
I yell, “Fuck, motherfucker! . . . Shiiiiit!” I’m trying to pull the tentacles out and escape, but everywhere I turn, I see more jellies. Without my rashguard I’m defenseless, which makes their presence more sinister. Those once harmless little bastards that I’d splash away are now unleashing their fury on me. It’s unavoidable. They’re right there; I’m getting stung. Fuckin’ boats. Those assholes dumped out their trash and sewage line; we’re in the middle of a trash and shit pool. The brown water looks like dissipating peanut butter, there are trails of it everywhere, and they’re connected. Randy’s stung, and everyone near us starts flailing their arms. In unison, everyone catches a wave in.
Back at Froggy’s I shower off and think about all the nasty, invisible bacteria that’s coating my body. Randy and I look over our wounds, and the stings are starting to puff up.
It’s a short sesh stopped short, right in the middle of having fun. We’re unfulfilled, so we sit and wait for another.
Sunday, July 3, 2011
A Barney in Bali--Day 25 (double sesh), 02JULY2011 SAT
My First Legit Floater:
It’s noon, which means it’s time to paddle out. I tell Randy that I’m only going out for an hour, so he decides to wait. The crowd at Froggy’s and the other warungs are starting to fill up. The white sand beach is filled with both locals and tourists. It’s a beautiful day that draws everyone out and about. High tide already peaked, so it’s going out fairly rapidly, but it’s still kind of high. I paddle out not expecting much. I don’t remember my first couple rides, but what I do remember is paddling back to the line and being in someone’s way as he’s dropping in on a wave. I try to steer left, and there’s room for him to make his drop without incident, but he’ll have to miss me by a foot. His drop is too vertical, and he falls forward. Expecting a collision, I go under and brace for the impact. We miss each other, but it’s close. I apologize to him, and he instead comments on his wipe out, oblivious that I’d feel any fault at all. This is another sign to me. I remember how I got pissed off at that one guy who was in my way; I need to stop doing that.
As I’m sitting in the line up there’s a long lull. I look down, and see what looks like a big, bright, orange-brown, nugget like, mud chunk floating in front of me, right on top of my board. “Motherfucker,” I say out loud. Someone’s taking a shit in the line up. There’s a floater right in front of me, just chillin’ . . . marinating. I think about grabbing my camera, but as I’m looking at it, brown water is dissolving off of it and mixing in the water. I splash it away and paddle somewhere else instead. It is a pretty massive floater though, it would make a great picture capturing the moment, but its slimy texture and oily trails turn me off.
A Godsend:
The way that the session is going, I’m not expecting much. Guys at the top of the wave are getting most of the waves, and I’m at the bottom hoping for a set that is too fast for their break. A set appears in the distance, and it’s a nice bump considering the lack of swell. Somehow, everyone on the inside doesn’t have position, the peak is too lined at the top, and the bottom has the shoulder. I paddle past the shoulder to catch it a little deep, and my timing‘s perfect. The wave is fast, but it’s opening up beautifully. The wave seems to be curling the whole ride. I imagine that Randy is watching, so I get a little loose. My knees are bent to feel the board on the wave, my arms move in sync with my legs on each pumping motion, and I’m surfing with the rail set the whole time. I try to emulate Andy Irons on “High Five” as he’s pumping down the line, but instead I’m going frontside and don’t have a barrel. I’m drawing the right lines, going high before the lip can start to break. A surfer on the inside doesn’t expect anyone to be on it. I see him paddling about to drop in, I let out a loud “WOOOOOOOOOOOOH!,“ and he backs out. I see I’m over shallow reef, I do a cutback but take too long to redirect, so the section leaves without me. It’s still a long ass ride; I’m past the channel and in front of the last warung.
Talk about a wave that made the whole day. I’m stoked, taking a long paddle back to the bottom of the wave again. I turn around, but it’s hard to make out Randy from the distance. It looks like he’s watching, so I throw a shaka and keep going.
I hate to say this. I know I said that I’d kill the ego, but it’s hard at times because there are crowds watching from the shore. They are either on the beach chairs, or watching the surf while the eat and drink. Every time someone has a good wave, everyone sees it. There’s a couple “hoots” and “hollers” that gets everyone’s attention, signaling them to look out. It’s not an epic day, but I have to say that I got one of the better waves of the day. It’s vain, but I’m not perfect, so I wonder if my ride got any honorable mentions or not.
After that wave, it’s hard to get another ride to live up to it. My last wave is a close out which drags me towards the inside. For the first time today, I feel the reef under my feet, so I decide to play it safe. My session’s just under an hour, but I got a damn good ride, and I feel that I’m ending everything on a good note. I catch the white wash to shore and go up to Randy. “Did you see my long ass ride?” I ask.
“Oh, noooo, I didn’t. I was talking to Chad.”
Oh well. I laugh a little. It would’ve been nice to get that validation from him if he saw it, but the memory ingrained in my mind is all that counts.
| Tearin' up that coconut! |
The Misadventure:
On the way home, Randy shows me the shortcut how to get back to my motel which unfortunately involves going the wrong way down a one way street. The locals do it, so . . . I guess it’s expected. Once we get to the motel, he says he’s gonna find somewhere to eat. I recommend Tree House Café since the price is right. He agrees.
| Unflattering view in front of the cafe |
We sit at the counter, people watch, and shoot the shit. The food in the afternoon isn’t as good as it was last night. The gado gado portions are a bit smaller, so I feel kind of bad for the call I made.
I’m out of rupiah and only have a hundred dollar bill that I need to exchange. Randy gives me directions on where to go before we part ways, so I pack up my laptop, plan on exchanging my money, and then hitting Chat Café in Seminyak.
Too bad I didn’t pay close enough attention when listening to his directions because I’m not able to find it. I say fuck it and head towards the other legit currency exchange place on the way to Canggu. Traffic is a little thick, so I’m stressing, shaking my head, and cursing at the gridlock which engulfs me. I’m on Sunset Road at the intersection by the gas station. The light turns green, my back tire gets squirrelly, so I pull over to the shoulder to check it out. Fuck my ass, It’s a flat tire.
I’m not sure what to do. I sit back on the bike, exhale, take a deep breath, relax, and absorb the situation. The gas station across the street has no mechanic, but it’s rush hour traffic anyway, how am I gonna get to the other side with a flat tire? I have no phone and can’t contact Randy. I pull out the paperwork for the bike which has a phone number and address. What the fuck am I gonna do with this? I look behind me and contemplate on going back to Kuta. If only I was there . . . I’d be up the street from the guy, and he could take care of it. There’s no fucking way. Traffic is way too brutal. All that bumper to bumper traffic, and I’ll be holding everyone up, fuck no. If I only had a phone. There’s another thought. I could find a repair shop, but what’s the going price for fixing a flat? It’s obvious that I’m bule. I imagine myself getting ripped off, finding out it actually costs pennies, and then hating myself for it later. I need to get to Randy.
I’m not sure how far I am from Randy’s house, I know how to get there, and if anything it’ll just take some walking. I ride the soft shoulder and park in front of a local business. I lock up the bike and start to walk, but as I look at the shoulder I realize that I can drive a little further. I go back, grab the bike, and ride on the side of the road with the flat tire. I go as far as I can until I see a traffic light ahead. That’s not going to be safe, I think to myself. I park the bike again, walk, and realize that the intersection is where Chat Café is. People driving by watch me, as I’m clearly out of place walking the highway. I ride the shoulder again and wait for traffic to clear before I push forward. There’s loose gravel on the shoulder, and a woman on her moped takes a spill, the left side of her body skids across the rocks. She wasn’t going very fast, but it’s startling, and enough to stop traffic. A couple locals help her. She struggles to kickstart her bike, but she seems fine.
I finally make it to Chat Café, but I still have no money to repair the flat. I start on foot into Seminyak’s shopping district to find a money changer. Randy just told me to ONLY go to legit, authorized money changers, that’s why he gave me specific directions on which one to go to. He said that a lot of the money changers will either charge commission or shortchange you, keeping some of your money for themselves. I look like a straight up foreigner, the way I used to look at tourists in Lahaina; I’m perfect bait.
| Seminyak, a very nice town in Bali. |
Another problem with changing out the money is that I don’t know what the rate’s been like lately, so I’m reluctant to change my money at the first place I see. I pass currency listings that read 8450, 9901, 9950, etc. Anything in the 9900 range seems too good to be true. I walk so far that I’m deep in Seminyak, and I still haven’t found a legit establishment. The sun’s low but in my face, sweat beads off of my oily face, my shirt is soaked with sweat, and I got this laptop banging on my back with every step I take. I see money changer signs that claim no commission, but the arrow pointing to their locations are always down some empty alley. When I look down them, I see two fellows waiving me to come down. They look shady, so I keep walking. In desperation, I see one of these small money changers that some Asian tourists just finished using. I’m thinking, All right, some people just used it, they should be legit, and they’re on the street, not in some alley. The rate is 9450. I walk up. There are two fellows working the wooden booth. “You guys charging commission?“ I ask.
“No, no commission,” the guy says. He whips out his calculator and asks how much.
“One hundred,” I tell him. He does the calculations, shows me the calculator. It reads 945000. He asks for the money, but I ask for the rupiah first. I’m not liking this. His helper pulls out a wad full of 20000 bills, I have my hundred in hand, he tries to exchange it with me, but I ask him to count it first.
“Twenty thousand, forty, sixty, eighty, one hundred thousand. . . .” He goes on, he’s watching me, I’m watching the money, I’m wondering if I’ve lost count and if his hands are quicker than my eyes; I’m fuckin’ vulnerable and desperate right now. He counts all the way up to 945000. I tell myself that I’m just being a paranoid tourist, that not all these guys are crooks, and that I need to stop judging people. “Where are you from?” The main guy asks. We have a little small talk about Hawaii, I grab the money, comment on the weather, thank them, and walk a little down the street. I’m so naïve and trusting that I feel ashamed to recount the money in front of them, so I wait until I’m away.
I count, “Two, four, six, eight, one hundred. Two, four, six, eight, two hundred. . . .” I do this two times over, and I only have 645,000. I feel violated. I turn around, go back, tell him that I’m supposed to have 945,000.
He smiles calmly and says, “No, we gave you 20000 bills. You have the money.”
I wonder if I got the count wrong. I say, “Okay,” turn around, count the money three times over again, realize I’m not having a mathematical stupor, go back, and tell him that I only have 600,000. I whip out the wad and start counting out in front of him.
He hands me back my hundred and says, “Okay, you can change your money somewhere else.” He takes his money back, but he looks pissed off like I’m an accusatory asshole.
I keep walking until I find a place that actually has a counter with a guy behind some glass. The rate is 8450. He gives me a receipt; it’s a legit spot.
| Scoop of ice cream in there |
| Bengkel |
On With the Show:
| Because I can |
Back at my room I rinse off and look for some dinner. I decide to gamble on the Thai warung that my brother recommended. The Garden restaurant is next door, there’s a live band, they’re playing 80s rock, and the lead singer’s pretty damn good. I order the ice papaya drink. When it arrives, there’s no fucking ice in it. It’s good, but it’s warm, not what I hoped for. I order the spring roll appetizer. They are fried, small, but cheap. I actually hoped it would be like the Vietnamese ones. I order the chicken pad Thai. When I ordered it in Seminyak there was too much sauce. This place serves it too dry.
It’s a small warung, but I enjoy the music next door, and I take in the atmosphere. Mopeds and cars go by at a slow speed, a headlight spots me here and there, an Aussie walks along with two giggling Balinese chicks, two older guys meet up at The Garden and exchange greetings like they haven’t seen each other in years. Despite everything that’s happened today, I’m all right, and still see it all as an experience.
My bill is only 45000 rupiah, which comes out to $5.32 US. Not bad for an appetizer, main course, and a drink. I buy some water at the mini mart, go back to the hotel, try to write, but I’m too tired. It's an exhausting day in paradise.
A Barney in Bali--Day 25, 02JULY2011 SAT
Again:
I sleep much better than I did the night before. I’m not attacked by mosquitoes, the bed and pillows are broken in, and I rack out by 2300.
It’s 0400 when my body’s alarm clock goes off. Another hour and a half. I open my eyes again, and it’s just like yesterday. Light’s entering my room. “Fuck!” I say to myself. “I did it again.” It’s 0642, and I stumble around trying to prep my gear for the morning. Randy knows the deal. I walk downstairs, mount my equipment, and give my brother’s shortcut to Balangan (that I failed at yesterday) another shot. I fill up my bike with gas first and follow the road that I believe is the right one. Next think I know, I’m heading in the opposite direction just like yesterday. I shake my head. I bust a bitch, stop by Dunkin’ Donuts, Randy’s not there, so I keep riding to Balangan. Morning traffic is light, so I take more risks by aggressively passing other motorists. It’s my fastest ride to Balangan yet. I pull up and see Randy’s bike already parked. He’s waiting, the tide is going up, and there’s no rush.
| Everyday we watch guys get caught on the inside that can't make it out. |
Spirituality:
The waves this morning are nothing special. The swell peaked yesterday, and was expected to drop. It’s the smallest day that I’ve seen at Balangan yet. As usual, there are always a couple good sets, but when and how long until they happen is another issue. I drink my Bali coffee and begin to change when Randy spots Chad. Randy’s sitting closer to Chad as I warm up, so I can’t hear everything they are talking about. I don’t want to give bad information, but I tried to confirm as much with Randy as I could afterwards.
Randy said that he noticed a certain open minded spiritualness about Chad. “Usually yogis are like that after years of practice,” said Randy. Randy talked about some of his yoga friends that have the same energy about them. Randy asked him how he reached that level, and to his surprise, Chad got in touch with his spirituality before yoga; he got it from mountain climbing. Through competitive mountain climbing he put himself in so many near death situations that it changed him. Chad talked about opening his life to love, that he’s not “up there” everyday, and that some days are low. Randy also told me that that’s why a lot of yoga instructors stay single because they are so into their spiritual progression. They also talked about surfing. Chad said that he’s comfortable where he’s at as far as his level. Randy said that it’s rare for someone to know himself that well, that he can surf in the water and just “be.” I thought about it, and it made sense. All of my surfer buddies, myself included, are always pushing ourselves; not one of us are comfortable with where we’re at. Well, they hit it off pretty well and exchanged information. Before I leave I’ll probably end up telling him to hit me up when he surfs California and that I’ll have my couch ready for him. Other than military related travels, I haven’t really been on a journey as personal as this. But for a first real trip, it’s been a great privilege to meet some very interesting personalities along the way.
My brother enlightened me a little more about how traveling alone for long periods of time changes you, and then I thought about other friends that tried to tell me this a long time ago, but I was too narrow minded to know what they meant. I have a friend, an old army buddy named Sterwin. We spent a whole year in Utah together in the remote desert. We also spent another year in the Sinai desert right after Utah. He always tells me that he misses those places. I never understood why, and I thought he was crazy. When I remember him during those deployments, he lived quietly, enjoyed his self time, and was always playing his guitar. I wasn’t much of a surfer then, but now I realize . . . everyone’s different, and the isolated desert to him is what the ocean is to me. And at the same time, despite my surf sabbatical, I’m still pretty limited. Chad does a lot of activities in the snow and the mountains too. It’s a little reality check. I feel as if I’ve credited myself for things that I’ve done only to find I haven’t really done much at all.
Randy and I talked more about how Chad’s path in life isn’t easy. I thought about my own personality. I’d like to open myself up more and carry myself in a similar fashion, but I’ve always felt that I had a certain energy. I’m the guy that says, “Hi,” without getting a “hi“ back. I’m always defensive around strangers until I feel that I can at least trust them a little before I open up. I claim to be a positive person, but I’m pretty damn pessimistic as well. It guess to reach a certain level of spirituality, one can’t just flip a switch and change. It may take years of practice, time alone, and journeys away from home.
| That's the man |
Chad runs a blog about his adventures and experiences at: chadsayers.blogspot.com .
Dwindling:
We complain about the water before we paddle out. The high tide makes everything bumpy, or what my brother calls “wonky.” I paddle out first and sit near the bottom of the wave but much further towards the inside. There are actually shoulders, but they are two footers, good for turns if you’re fast enough, but all I can do is pump and draw high lines to get the longest ride possible.
| Glassy |
Randy paddles out but gets some decent turns out of the small surf. My next wave is a little bigger with a section that stands up a little more. I see the face going vertical at about shoulder height, but I continue to pump down the line and practice my sorry excuse for a cutback. After the ride Randy says, “You had a good barrel section.” I know I saw the wave standing up, but I had no idea that it was good for a barrel, especially in this small surf. Barrel hunting is just entirely new to me; I still don’t know what to look for.
| Random set |
The next couple waves are just okay compared to the big days that we’ve had. I search for barrel sections and linger by the pocket more, but the waves don’t seem to do it again. This blog is being written a little late, so I can’t remember all the details of the morning, but I remember that it wasn’t anything to light a match and stomp my feet over.
We paddle back in and polished off a pancake each. For 15,000 rupiah you can’t go wrong.
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