Rick had a camp site reserved right there on the sand. My bro and I showed up at about 1:00 P.M. Rick already warned us that it was small. Right in front of our site were consistent two foot peaks. The waves would form up nicely, and give fun little left hand shoulders. One look at the waves made it obvious that Porto never breaks that good. No one wanted to paddle out. For them, it wasn’t a good day. I kept looking at the waves, drooling, and fighting the impulse to just paddle out at that second. No one else was on it, so it seemed like I would’ve looked like a dumb ass if I did. Lowers and Old Man’s was dominated by long boarders. We could see it breaking better at those spots, but there were just too many people.
After some beers, we paddled out right in front of the camp site. The surf got inconsistent, and there was a long wait for sets. I should’ve paddled out earlier, and I paid for it with the decrease in swell. The rides were short and shallow.
I got one good right that opened up. I was able to get two quick cracks at the top. My brother and some other guys saw it, which was cool. I got out the water when the sun set. My bro gave me some pointers on the sand as I looked back at the ocean. The surf usually looks better from the shore. Some little waves started to come in consistently again, and I paddled out for another half hour. I chased down little two foot peaks that were scattered around me. I got more fun little rides until I was exhausted.
I know that place gets really good when there’s more swell. I will be back.
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