OVER IT: MON 1.24.2011 MORN

CREW:  Solo Bolo
FLAKES OF THE DAY:  None
RAN INTO:  No one
TIME:  1030 - 1130, 1 hr.
CONDITIONS:  Shoulder to head high, mid tide, walled up, mostly closeouts, no wind, sunny.

    I checked out Porto around seven in the morning.  The tide seemed kind of low, and the waves were closing out.  I went to the gym instead.  Yesterday morning, it was important that I got a session in.  I started school yesterday, and I wanted to start off the day right.  Also, the last time I surfed was Thursday, and I was feening for a wave.

    When I was in Iraq, I hated the feeling of labeling myself as a surfer and not being able to surf.  It’s like being a musician without instruments.  I feel like the longer I go without surfing I begin to lose my identity a little.  I don’t like that; I hate that.  So … I surf as much as possible to keep the fire burning.

    At 1030 the tide was much higher, just like the sun.  It was a warm day.  Other people pulled up and changed into their wetsuits.  I saw three right hand shoulders open up at 45th.  I also saw that everywhere else looked a little closed, especially by the tanks.  The lines over there were walled and long.  There weren’t too many people out, but everyone there was hogging 45th.      I jogged in between the tanks and the stacks to try out a left that I saw. 

    The paddle out was a little brutal.  I tried my best to time it, but it was a long paddle out.  I had to fight my way through a solid set.  When I made it I was out of breath.  As soon as I regained my composure I waited for a good wave … it never happened.  Nothing but walls came my way.  I paddled closer to the tanks.  I saw a guy get a good right by the stacks.  He caught a long ride, and I saw the bottom of his board on three good snaps on the same wave.  I envied him.  I saw some guys getting that left on 45th.  Fuck, I thought to myself.  I only had an hour and it didn’t look like I was gonna get anything. 

    I paddled for three closeouts.  Two I could only go straight on, and I had a noteworthy wipeout on the other one.  Once again, I ended the session paddling in.  I need to start surfing different spots.

    I also checked Porto this morning.  Closed out again.  Lame.