CREW: Solo
FLAKES OF THE DAY: None
RAN INTO: No one
TIME: 0830 - 0945, 1 hr. & 15 min.
CONDITIONS: Light offshore winds, scattered peaks, four foot waves, breaking really late, long wait for good sets, low to mid tide.
I didn’t surf Monday because I have been behind in my school work. I have actually been experimenting with how much I can surf while still getting my homework done. Well, since I’ve fell behind in my work, I now have to surf less.
Things still haven’t been the same since I went to Trestles. I woke up this morning with no expectation of good waves. How sad is that? There was a time when I used to froth for Porto. There was no such thing as a bad morning session; that used to be my attitude. Is it natural that as one progresses, an expected demand for good waves will follow? At least that’s what I think I’m going through. Good waves or not, I had to stay local this morning.
The tide has shifted to being low around first light, so I decided to check it out a little bit later. I drove to Porto first and liked what I saw. There seemed to be consistent scattered peaks rolling in, but I had to see what 26th was doing, especially since Christina got that good sesh on Saturday. I got free parking on 27th and watched it as I smeared my face with sunblock. It looked a little bit smaller and breaking closer to shore. Porto would be the call.
I gave up my free parking space and headed over. I parked next to this older Asian guy I always see, and this younger guy that I got a photo of, on a left in front of the tanks, a couple days ago. I talked to the older guy, and he was gonna feed the meter to surf longer. I found a channel by the tanks and paddled out over there. The current was pulling south for a change, and before I knew it I was in front of 45th paddling to hold my position. It looked really good from the shore, but once I got out there it was a long ass wait. I can’t recall all of the waves that I got; all I know is that I got one really good left.
Today’s waves were breaking weird. There were a lot of peaks, but they didn’t form steep enough to paddle into, at least not until they reached too close to the shore. Randomly, some ready to ride peaks would show up. I got a left hander. It was a well defined peak that was part of a closely spaced set. I popped up, trimmed, pumped, top turned, stalled on the cut back, recovered, and pumped all the way until the shoulder crumbled. I fancied attempting an air, but my board didn’t even leave the water; I’m not ready yet. I’ve realized that I usually do the same thing on lefts as described above. My problem right now is stalling on my cut backs. I have a feeling that I am stopping my turn too soon, and I really need to focus on continuing the turning motion until I’m going the other direction. In time, in time. My other waves I need not mention. I saw that younger guy from the parking lot getting wave after wave on his long board. I didn’t hate him, but it made me feel more frustrated. I reached an epiphany that it makes no sense being in the water for a couple hours if I only get a couple good waves. What a waste of time. I need to start surfing where there are more waves with good shape. For example, at Trestles there is the potential of getting as many good rides in a quarter of the time that it takes at Porto. What I’m saying is, I need to use my time more wisely, or else it’s really going to take longer to progress.
I have been watching out for my wetsuit hygiene after my recent scare of having a skin infection. That’s another reason why I didn’t surf on Monday. Thank goodness the school nurse just said those were pimples on my back and not sores. I didn’t piss in my wetsuit, and when I came home I rinsed the hell out of it; I let it soak for a while.
Today was the second meeting at my college for the surf club, which unfortunately holds its meetings during my class time. I am not sure if I will be joining the club because I will have to do my intro at the first event versus having already met everyone. I will basically be a new face being seen for the first time, and I won’t know anyone except for the guy that had the clipboard when I signed up. We will see what happens. For now, homework has to be the priority, as sad as that sounds. However, Fridays … I will drive a long distance for surf, good surf.
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