LIKE OLD TIMES: FRI 3.04.2011 MOR

CREW: Solo
FLAKES OF THE DAY: None
RAN INTO: Ray
TIME: 0715 - 0845, 1 hr. & 30 min.
CONDITIONS: Still overcast with a hint of light, chest to shoulder high, a little burgery, consistent with good surf only at main peaks, but still enough to go around.

    I got to Porto a little late, but I got a free parking spot on the hill at 45th. From that vantage point, I couldn’t really tell what the waves were doing, but I did see a lot of waves reforming on the inside and longboarders paddling about. High tide was a little close to 0830, so it was already getting a little “burgery” out there.

    I saw Ray in the lineup in front of 45th, battling it out with all the other heads out there. I made way to the tanks. I saw some clean lefts roll through 45th. It seemed that at least three surfers would try to go for the same wave each time. The longboarders were dominating, dropping in way early, ahead of anyone without enough board. There was an old guy on a longboard that I was sharing the peak with. I watched him paddle into waves that I had no chance of getting into, and he was going all the way to shore.

    I had to catch the waves late, but it was a brutal morning. I had at least three funky wipeouts which you wouldn’t expect on a mooshy day. For the life of me, I can’t remember any good waves that I got. I know I got one decent left, but I got a bunch of close outs, too. Ray paddled by and commented on the weird waves. I told him that it looked better than yesterday.

    This was one of those sessions where it seemed that everyone, except I, was getting fun waves. All I know is that when I got out of the water the parking lot was packed, and there were scattered peaks all over the place. It looked like old times, like the good old days when Porto seemed to always have some fun waves. It looked fun, just wasn’t my day.