A WEEKEND AT TRESTLES: A LONGBOARDER‘S HEAVEN, SUN 3.27.2011 EVE

CREW: Michelle, Cheryl, Silverton, Sebastian, Dan, and Tim
FLAKES OF THE DAY: NA
RAN INTO: NA
TIME: Guestimating from 1630-1900, 2 hrs.  30 min.
CONDITIONS: Offshore winds, soft, chest high, consistent, a little choppy, and sunny.

    Most of the DRC left one by one, and it was just the girls and I. They napped in the tent while I failed at suppressing my snack attack on the picnic table. I gave them the choice of where we would surf, and they were pretty adamant at trying out Old Mans for their first times; it would be my first time, too. Even thought the spot looked packed and the swell looked like it was decreasing, I didn’t mind the thought of catching some lefts for a change. We prepd for round two and made our walk south. I’ve never seen that part of the beach. We walked a bit further and paddled out at what was officially San Onofre Beach. Michelle eyed a lone peak that broke outside and to the south of the whole crowd. I made my way there while they hung out amongst the patches of surfers. The early evening conditions were almost summer-like. All the clouds were gone by then, the sun turned the blue water to a light tinted green, and everything looked delightfully warm.

    I sat and waited for that peak that Michelle saw while they were getting some long two foot rides. Finally, the outside set came, and I paddled for it, making a very late drop. The wave bogged out once it got to the inside. Michelle paddled up and said, “That wave that you got was clutch!” Yeah, there were a couple fun rides out there, but the truth was that I definitely needed a bigger board to really enjoy that break. Cheryl and Michelle came prepared by bringing their longboards just in case. Michelle shared the peak with me until she darted further south to a more consistent spot. Cheryl joined me and had problems with the hat she was wearing. It was actually a little comical to see her paddle out with that thing on. It looked liked a hat made for planting tulips in a garden. I assisted by stashing the hat in the top of her wetsuit, which gave her a hunchback like appearance.

    We joined Michelle at her newly found peak. Surprisingly, it was really consistent. Wave after wave broke from the outside. The wave would peel far away, and all we had to do was chase down the shoulder to paddle into it. It was just so small and mooshy. Michelle milked the most out of those waves, but I had to work hard and generate whatever momentum I could. Some of the rides were still fun and good for a couple top turns, but for the most part I was trimming on a burgery shoulder.

    I paddled back towards Old Mans to see if I could snag a left, but by the time I got there the water was already clearing up, and everyone was leaving. The surf turned choppy, and I caught a close out to shore.

    When I got back to the site I saw my friend Dan’s car was parked there. I dried up and saw my friends Sebastian, Dan, and Tim in the distance. With them was Cheryl’s boyfriend Silverton walking with the girls. My buddies stayed to smoke a cigar and left. The rest of the night was spent eating chili and making some smores over the camp fire. Silverton offered a kind gestured and carefully made me some smores with the precision of an iron chef. It was the calmest night of the whole trip; there was practically no wind. However, I slept in my car since the girls were there, and I had the worst sleep ever in my wagon. I didn’t anticipate that the car windows would make everything inside so cold over night.

    It was still fun to have that easy session. By that evening my body was worn, and it welcomed not having to work as hard. For any of my friends that are just starting to surf, that will be their spot.