TRESTLES--DECEPTION: SAT 5.21.2011 EVE

TRESTLES--DECEPTION: SAT 5.21.2011 EVE
Countdown to Bali: 17 Days
CREW: Solo
FLAKES OF THE DAY: None
RAN INTO: No one
TIME: 1315 - 1445, 1 hr. & 30 min.
CONDITIONS: Chest to shoulder high, inconsistent, sunny, stronger on shores, choppy.

    Damn, after roughly a three hour break, I paddled back out again. I was supposed to wait a little longer, but once the sun burned off the marine layer and shined through, it was hard not to get back out. I sat in my car and watched Churches do its usual consistent thing, so I decided to paddle out and join the crowd.

    I sat on the outside first to practice some good surf etiquette, but the waves seemed to stop once I got there. I paddled further north and got an insignificant close out. I guess it still counted. My next wave was a racy right that I caught right at the peak. I was too slow at popping up, so I had to pump to get to the open face. I had actually made it, and right when I looked up I saw two other guys drop in on me.

    I kept paddling further north in the middle of each lull until I was on the north side of Churches. The inconsistency was worse than the morning. The sets seemed to break far out, or they would form but only break towards the inside. It was frustrating; everyone was.

    I caught an unexpected right hander that took me all the way to shore. I was too damn slow. I looked above my shoulder and saw the open face, walling up, just waiting for me to hack it or do something. I felt stuck to my board, as I rode the middle of the face against my instincts.

    Everything looked so much better from the shore, but then when I got back to my car it looked like Churches was working again. Oh well. I’m still glad I paddled out, but I definitely need to iron out the wrinkles fast.