Sunday, July 17, 2011

READY, SET, SNOOZE!: SUN 7.17.2011 MORN


Crew: Christina
Ran into: Rick and Jimmy
Time: 0930-1030, 1 hr.
Conditions: Sunny, onshore wind, cold water, 1-2 feet, inconsistent, more crowded than yesterday.

Last night I talked to Klaude, and we planned on meeting at 26th again. The swell forecast is small, and the drive down south doesn't seem worth it for 2-3 foot surf. Unexpectedly, I had to drive Lauren to Hollywood last night for her friend's party, which threw a slight wrench in my rest plan. The end result, I woke up late.

It's 0815 when I hit the snooze button for the last time. I see nothing but pure blue through the cracks of the blinds. There's no time for breakfast. The day looks warm, there's no wind, so I plan on trunking it. I get a text from Klaude at 0821. It reads: We're surfing 26th. I spend a good fifteen minutes driving around and looking for free parking. It seems hopeless. I drive back up 27th St. and find Rick changing out of his wetsuit. I should be happy, but I'm a little bummed. I missed a chance to surf with him. He says he just finished surfing with Jimmy, it's small, but it's fun. Jimmy double parks around the corner, stops to chit chat, and then they both leave.

As I'm changing into my shorts, I see what looks like Klaude's van parked in the top lot. When I reach the walkpath, I see Christina arriving at the same time. She's ditched the wetsuit too. “Is anyone else coming out?” She asks.

“Klaude should be out here. I think I saw his van.”

When we reach the sand, Christina's friend Rich joins us. The lineup is even thicker than yesterday, some locals are mixed in with new faces, every little peak is taken, and the waves are even smaller than yesterday's; it's a longboard day. I try to make out Klaude and company among the masses but can't. I paddle just north of the tower, but there's no sign. I paddle back south and don't see him. I wander feeling like a lost member of a tribe trying to pick up of the scent of his people.

The onshore wind starts, and I start to feel a little chilly. Thirty minutes into the session my teeth are chattering. Not as warm as I thought. I catch a couple waves right from the start, but the lack of power prevents me from doing much on my thruster. I sit by Christina and Rich, but I need to escape the crowd. I go more south but can't escape. In an hour the cold is too much to handle. I catch my last wave in and head back. I wish I woke up earlier.

5 comments:

  1. I surfed Hammerland by my lonesome around 9am. Leashless. It was refreshing.

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  2. I kept on pressing snooze too and didn't force my self outta bed until 9...by then I thought it was too late to meet up with u guys. Sad I missed out but it didn't sound as memorable as Sat. Glad I saw you then and so happy you're back!

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  3. hahaha, contrary to the 2 top comments, i had a lot of fun surfing that morning! i wish you were out there brah! it was so fun and clean.

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  4. Whiff: Excellent gamble. My brother used to tell me to surf Hammers, but every time I'd go to check it out, it wasn't good. I know it works sometimes. Good for you. You definitely got the last laugh.

    Cheryl: Thank you. It's nice being back. I got some slight Bali withdrawals, but I'll manage. Klaude had a good sesh. Maybe I just didn't have that much fun because I couldn't find the rest of the crew.

    Klaude: We got this weekend coming up. Is there swell in our future?

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  5. 100% agree with your comment towards cheryl....

    i hope there is?? i'm not sure anymore... it looks like the islands are blocking everything thrown our way

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