Crew: Frances, Rick, and Jimmy B.
Time: 1330-1430, 1 hrs.
Conditions: Onshore wind still, inconsistent, three feet, sunny.
Despite the surf, the day's turning out to be a success. Frances gets along with John quite well, especially since Frances is from Oahu. John says that his daughter goes to UH, as he shows us his UH sticker on his truck. They have a lot to talk about. We help John set up his tent, and Frances gets beers tossed at him the whole afternoon.
Jimmy shows up with his friend from New Jersey, and he's about to take him for a paddle out. Rick follows and so does Frances, while I'm stuck deciding if I'm going to trunk it or not. I throw on some shorts and paddle out. The line up is lighter than the morning because the tide just bottomed out. There are still some three footers coming through, but the sections still seem fast and closed out. I get no memorable rides, but I watch Frances do his usual front side thing, and Rick never has a problem catching waves.
We're only out there for about an hour. It starts to get a little crowded, I'm not getting any good rides, I'm cold, so it doesn't seem worth it to stay in the water. The activities outside of the water seem to be better than the actual surf.
why do these write up seem lack luster compared to the other write ups hmmmmmmm?
ReplyDeleteWell, I wrote them pretty late, days after the actual sesh. Also . . . I hate to say that I'm going through some Bali withdrawals. The conditions weren't that good, so I'm kind of being a whiner. Me writing reflects me stoke, mon!
ReplyDelete