SKUNKATION (double sesh), WED 28SEPT2011 EVE

LOC: Middles Trestles & Churches
Crew: Solo
Time: 1615-1815, 2 hrs.
Conditions: Overcast, onshore wind, low tide, inconsistent, 1-2 ft.




    While doing my readings, the surf actually looks decent when mid tide hits. At about 1600, I start suiting up again. It’s one of the lowest tides that I’ve ever seen here. I’m used to the sight of exposed cobblestones, but not so many over a long distance. I take the 6’1” DMS. I have the wrong boards for today, and I regret leaving the 6’3” JS at home. Before I shut the rear hatch, I stop a surfer who’s going home.

    “You just come from Middles?” I ask.

    “Yeah.”

    “How was it over there?”

    “It’s all right. Maybe a little better than over here.”

    “Are there a lot of guys out?”

    “Nah, just a few.” He looks out at Churches. “But it’s not worth the walk, it’s not that much better.”

    Well, there’s only one way to know for sure. With the evening onshore wind, the waves don’t only look small, now they are more crumbly. I walk to Middles, and there appears to be a couple peaks working. I do the cobble stone dance and paddle out. Initially, there seems to be some consistency. The sets come in every three to five minutes, and I’m lucky enough to start with a couple quick rides. Then, the lull starts. I get a right that gives me one clean top turn. After that, the spot turns off again. It’s hard to imagine a spot so good to just turn to shit. Just like the morning, I paddle in and start walking back towards Churches.

    I’ve only surfed for barely an hour. I watch the small group of surfers catch some waves, but it’s so small and inconsistent. I’m on the verge of calling it a day, but something compels me to paddle out once more. For the first time, there’s a small clearing among the clouds where I can see the sky. The sun’s already low by the horizon, but it’s beams finally shine down, illuminating the water out in the distance. For the chance of catching the sunset, I paddle out once more.

    There’s a solo surfer at a random peak just south of the main one. I share it with him. The waves are smaller than the morning, but the rides are long, classic Churches’ conditions. The overcast is still thick over the horizon, so a sunset is out of the questions. However, the appearance of the sky overhead alters the scenery. The ocean turns into a metallic blue with even lighter blue shimmering on the surface. With each chop or ripple of water, oblong shapes of clear reflections dance over the ocean. Even with the grass and seaweed scattered around me, I’m reminded that this is still a beautiful place. I end the session with a couple long rides bringing me even closer to where I parked. The day’s over, and the next decision is made: I’m not spending the night here; it’s not worth it. I meet up with my childhood friend Seba for some all you can eat sushi. The surf sucked, but at least the post surf meal is good.

    My full stomach brings discomfort the whole drive home. When I arrive, I don’t even unload the car. I simply take a shower and go to sleep. I’m taking this as a sign. No more traveling for surf, at least not for another week. Never trust the forecasts, and some times, it’s just better to stay local.