Wednesday, October 12, 2011

FAMILIAR FACES, GOOD TIMES MON 03OCT2011 MOR


Crew: Francis & Shan
Time: 0700-0930
Conditions: ?

            After giving up my weekend for work, I was dying to get back into the water. Of course, whenever I’m not in the water, it’s good. Klaude, Francis, and the whole crew said that they scored local on Saturday. With everyone back doing the weekly grind, Francis was available to surf on Monday. Surprisingly, I got a phone call from Shan who I haven’t seen since I left to Bali. He told me that he’s been busy with his new photography business and barely in the water. I extended the invite, but I didn’t expect much. When I came back from Bali I called and told him I had a souvenir for him. He never came to get it, so I gave it to someone else. I’ve gotten over being upset with flakiness. Wise words from my friend Klaude: “Don’t make an ‘event’ out of it. Let them know you’re surfing. If the show, they show. If they don’t . . . fuck it.”

            I woke up and headed to 26th. I hunted for free parking and then sent a text to Shan and Francis. Shan replied and said, “There’s parking down here by the lifeguard station. Come down.” Well, he proved me wrong that’s for sure. I parked, and we caught up a little before hitting the water. Francis was a little behind us.

            The morning was a beautiful one. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky, barely anyone out, but there was a little wind that made the water choppy. The shape was just average. We tried to score the left just south of the tower. We got a handful of rides, some with little corners and some just fizzling out. Francis joined us. The wave of the day went to him. He and a longboarder were competing for the wave. The other guy gave a nice courtesy. They looked at each other, he said, “Go ahead,” and Francis went for it. We saw him disappear behind the left going backside then emerging off the top and hitting the lip before reentering. The interruption of the water’s path gave a voluminous spray of water out the back. At that time only one thought passed my mind: Francis rips. 

            At about the 1100 mark we decided to paddle in. Shan was already at the lot completely changed. Francis had to get ready for work. 

Shan asked, “You know any other good places for breakfast around here, since you know a lot of places.” 
I thought about it and suggested Mandy’s in El Segundo. I told him there is a decent breakfast special there. Then, the thought of pancakes consumed me, so I told him I’d meet him.

The late morning atmosphere at Mandy’s was mellow. The usual old timers that fill up the spot in the morning were gone. I love this place. I ordered the breakfast special (two pancakes, two sausages, two bacon, and two eggs for $3.99 are you out of your mind?!) and Shan got the all American. It was actually nice catching up with him. He was one of the guys who always came out to surf. We had a good talk and then went our ways. It ended up being a good morning. Surf followed by coffee and pancakes, all with a friend I haven’t seen in a while. Once again, surfing brings people together.

2 comments:

  1. fransaaaaaauuuuuce!! cheee huuuuuu

    man, he does rip... hahaha

    nice write up! indeed, surfing brings people together.

    ReplyDelete