WELCOME TO THE OFFSHORES, WED 02NOV2011 MOR

Surfing fuel. My girlfriend's homemade shrimp pasta from last night.

Crew: Francis & Shan

Time: 0700-1000, 3 hrs

Conditions: Clean, offshore wind, clear skies, 2-3 feet, a little inconsistent, racy long peaks but rideable.

            I an attempt to restore some lost balance in my life, I’ve made the reasonable commitment to exercise three times a week. Last night, I did a light shoulder work out. I had no idea of the impact it would have.

            

            My alarm goes off at 0545, but I snooze until 0600. It’s funny how I wake up early when I have to drive for surf. However, surfing local doesn’t mean that I get that much more sleep. I think I have to wake up almost just as early because I move at a sloth’s pace when surfing in the area. The need to paddle out at first light isn’t there as much. I throw on my wetsuit in my little apartment, grab my gear, and head out the door. I drive all the way down to the lifeguard station at 26^th. There’s no free parking there, but I stop to take a look at the waves. I can see that all the high schoolers are getting their morning sesh in. There seem to be scattered peaks that are working in front of the 26^th St. tower, so I circle around to find a place to park. 

            I’m surprised that 27^th St. is completely vacant, save for another car and my own. The thermometer is at 55 degrees. When I step outside, the offshore wind is a little strong and making the temp cooler than anticipated. I send out the mass text to let my weekday surf buddies know where I am.

             

            It’s just before 0700 when I’m in front of the tower. I haven’t seen a day this clean locally for a while. The offshore wind only puts tiny ripples in the water, but the held shape of the waves is a testament to the wind’s contribution. The cool morning air and clear skies feels like winter. Feelings of seasons past, those cold November and chilly December mornings come back to me. Soon it will be the holidays. I’ll never forget those sessions during the week when everyone is off. We all still meet, talking about what the plans are for the day, never passing the opportunity to surf even when family themes dominate the agenda. Christmas sessions, cold, ice-numbing, and chilly, there’s just a different flavor in the air during those times, and they’re right upon us. Crisp and brisk, I look forward to the paddle out.

            Directly in front of 26^th is a mass of groms and locals, but the kids are clearly dominating. I want none of it. I eye a left-hander just to the south and sit there with a couple fellows. Despite the clean conditions, the day is not necessarily perfect or a wave buffet. There are peaks, but a lot of them are long and racy. The bigger ones close out, but my optimism is still strong. The recent mornings of pulling up to Porto to crumbly, choppy conditions are still fresh, so I’m sure that some nice ones will roll through. 

            My first waves aren’t significant. I either trim before the wave closes or there’s nowhere to go. After paddling back to the lineup a couple times, my shoulders feel weak. I haven’t worked out in a while, and last night’s routine is letting me know that my muscles need rest. Also, I feel pretty winded. Am I that out of shape? At least I don’t get caught on the inside or get in anyone’s way. 

            Someone yells, “Matt!” I turn around, and it’s Francis. I usually spot my friends from the shore but not this time. We catch up, trade off on waves, and hoot each other on. As soon as the kids clear out, we head closer to the tower. Once there I can see Shan and Veronica on the sand. I wave at him frequently, while he looks right at me in confusion. I know it’s him because he has booties and gloves on. He doesn’t wave back until he’s walking out to deeper water.

            Francis decides to sit with the pack to catch the rights while Shan and I remain a little south. “It’s a good wave but too crowded over there,” says Shan. My sentiments exactly. There are random pulses in the ocean. I haven’t seen good, three-wave sets in a while; these pulses come in one or two waves. Even though some are closing out, some hold. I manage to get my wave of the day. It’s about a three foot left. It’s racy, so I pump to the shoulder and get my first top turn. It’s not as clean as the turns from HB, but it’s still good practice. I pump further down the line and get one more arc at mid-face before the ride ends. 

            I have other opportunities to duplicate the ride, but my timing is off. I either scratch out, paddle too deep, or paddle too far inside. I haven’t had this many wipeouts in one session since the morning we met Clay Marzo and Cosmic John at Newport. Francis ventures from the crowd and back to us. Another pulse produces a single left that forms in the distance. Francis and another guy have the peak, but the other guy is too deep. Francis takes this wave all the way to shore, leaving Shan and I, and three other guys, commenting on how good a wave that was. 

            Lately, I’ve been pulling a lot of multi hour sessions, somewhere around three. On this morning, the three hours goes by fast. By 1000, we each leave the water separately. I say bye to Shan on the way up the street, and Francis drives by my car for a quick chat before he leaves. Looking down at the ocean, the wind is still offshore with plenty of waves to be had. I hope we have more offshore days like this to come.