Crew: Klaude
Time: 0700-0830
Conditions: Sunny, clear, cold, offshores, high tide, 4 ft, consistent, walled, and racy.
Initially I wanted to paddle out a little later, but Klaude let me know the night before that he was going early. He wasn’t lying. At about 0619 I got the text that he was leaving the house. Lying in my bed I could have easily stuck with my commitment to surf later, but I’m a sucker when it comes to surfing with friends, so I got up in hopes not to be too far behind him.
I get the best free parking in the area, and I can see Klaude warming up on the sand. I should rest. My right shoulder has been a little sore during long paddles, and from what I can see it looks like a nice day to get worked on the inside. The high tide creates a network of whitewash while walls, four-feet plus, form consecutively on the outside. I had the luxury of shape yesterday but today’s a different animal. I can be a cynic at times, and I’m already telling myself that I’m not catching shit today. But . . . I try not to be selfish; it’s Christmas. Also, I can’t let my battle buddy have all the closeouts to himself. I race to the sand trying to catch him before he paddles out, but he’s already making his way through the shallos. He doesn’t hear me through the white-noise, but I’m paddling only a few feet behind him. I do my best to sneak up, but he turns around right as I’m on his ass. We have a good laugh and exchange Merry Christmases. He goes over his plans for the day while we insert our stoke for some long awaited NBA action. I’m persistent on what he’s doing because deep inside I’m a little bummed that Lauren’s not home. I’m hoping that he’s free to chill to do something after, but he’s booked.
None-the-less, it’s still a morning where we enjoy each other’s company, more-so focused on the conversation in between riding closeouts. The shape looks a little better towards Rosecrans but why bother? He explains it best saying that it’s just a pre Christmas session to come out and get wet. Whether there’s good surf or not, he has the day off, and he’s exactly where he wants to be.
On the sand I can see CC with her yoga buddy stretching. It’s not exactly the best novice conditions, as I lose sight of them once they paddle out. Klaude has a bottle of wine for Lauren and I, so I stop by his car to pick it up. I wish him well for the rest of the day.
At night I end up in the valley at my sister’s house with family. By the time I get home Lauren arrives as well, ending her family holiday weekend early to spend time together. She got me Innersections 2, but we only watch Pete Devries and Jamie O’Brien’s sections, since I’m saving the whole movie for a special occasion. She’s stoked off the Yoda bathrobe that I got her; it has green ears and everything. Well, that’s Christmas. It didn’t even feel like it this year, just came and went.
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