Crew: Francis, Klaude, Christina
Time: 0615-?
Conditions: 2-3 ft, crowded, high tide, inconsistent, racy
I can’t remember if I showed up with Francis at the same time, but I know that I chose the wrong board for that day. I whipped out the 5’8 Lost board. I knew the swell was backing off, but I hoped for some decent shape where I could crank out some turns on this low-rocker board. Instead, the peaks were long, small, and racy. Francis and I started in front of the 26th St. tower, but gawd damn it got so crowded . . . again, even more than yesterday. There weren’t many waves to go around to begin with. I paddled north to escape the main throng of surfers and ran into Gary, Dave T., Jimmy B., and Rick. They had a little area all to themselves, and for a minute I was happy to have found some breathing room. I caught a right, but the section was running away. Meanwhile, I looked behind me and saw Gary flying down the line; I dropped in on him. He rides a Bonzer, and he’s one of those old guys that rip. In fact . . . pretty much all the old guys at 26th rip. I apologized and caught more closeouts.
When Francis arrived he brought half the crowd from 26th St. with him. It was so crowded over there that everyone started filtering north; there was just no escape from people. I was catching waves but they were mostly closeouts with a couple pumps. I thought to myself how I couldn’t wait for school to be over so I could go somewhere else to surf.
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