Time: 0800-0915
Conditions: 2 ft, inconsistent, light onshore wind.
Last night I went to sleep somewhere around 0300. It’s barely past 0600 when I get the phone call from Klaude. “We’re here,” he says.
“How is it?”
“Small.”
“Okay, I’ll be there.”
I repeatedly hit the snooze button before I stumble out of bed. No breakfast, no water, just straight to the beach. I’m mad at myself for being late, but getting back into the surfer groove has been challenging. Sleep deprivation plus a cold morning and a warm cozy bed makes it harder to get going.
There’s no free parking and the morning is slightly overcast. I break one of my cardinal rules and park at the meters which cost me about two whopping dollars. Not only is it small, but slightly crumbly because of the light onshores. A couple peaks roll through, but they are tiny. Another bad sign is that my spot that is usually nut-to-butt with surfers only has a sparse gathering. I make out Klaude and Francis in the lineup, and without warming up I make my way towards them. I need to get used to this cold water. We exchange the morning greetings. “Was it better earlier?” I ask.
“Actually, it’s better now,” says Klaude. Some of the local vets are milking the rides, going all the way down the line. I catch a left that actually has a shoulder, but since it’s small and weak there isn’t much push to it. I practice going top to bottom, reentering off the lip for momentum. It’s not a day for turns, so I try to be graceful. I regret selling my 6’6, beefy Merrick. I’m realizing that I need a bigger board for smaller days.
It’s an insignificant morning. Most of my rides are closeouts that I go straight on. Klaude and Francis leave about twenty minutes before I do. It’s been a while since I caught a wave that lined up well, good for at least three turns. That would be nice.
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