OFF, WED 25JAN2012 MOR

Crew: Khang & Francis

Time: 0900-1030

Conditions: High tide, mooshy, 4 ft, offshore, sunny, warm, and crowded.

     I stayed up pretty late handling stuff for school, so instead of getting up at first light, I thought I’d prioritize my rest, seeing as how I have homework to do now. The only thing is that I know high tide is around 0900, so there’s a chance it will be mooshy. When I wake up at 0800, I have texts from Khang and Francis. They’ve already been there for a half an hour. I’m so lethargic in the mornings now. I used to be “Morning Matt,” but I don’t know about that any more. I get VIP parking by the lifeguard station. A surfer who’s also suiting up behind me asks me a bunch of questions about my wagon. He drives a monster truck. It’s probably the fifth time this has happened, and I’m proud to talk about how my car’s been the perfect surf mobile. 

     The waves look mooshy, but it’s pretty consistent. I spot the boys easy, and I watch Francis’ frontside attack as I paddle out. He carves the lip, crouches, shifts his weight on the tail for the turn, and redirects his nose down the line, all with speed, never missing a beat. It’s exactly what I’ve been working on, but he’s already had this smooth and down pat for quite some time. I can’t help but be a little envious. Knowing Francis, he’s so chill and mellow, and then he just tears it up in the water. What an alter ego, like Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde. Maybe if I just relax and be chill it will enhance my surfing ability. . . . Doubt it. 

     When I paddle up to him, he says that it’s still pretty good right now. It’s a little crowded for a Wednesday morning. I go for a couple waves but have to back-out because guys are already on them. Khang’s sitting a little north of 26^th where’s there’s more people. I’m not catching waves anyway, so I blow up his spot. I ditch my board, dive under the water, and try to surprise him, but when I resurface he says, “Awwwww, I saw the GoPro!” My board blew my cover. He says it was better earlier, and that the inside was really brutal when the tide was lower. We lose focus in conversation, and a wave is about to break in front of us. I try to turn-and-go, but I’m too late, so I wipeout. It’s not the best way to start a surf session. Guys on the shoulder must have been like, “Look at this kook.”

     I’m struggling, scratching out on a lot of waves. Even the guy with the monster truck is scoring. Every time I’m in position, someone else is on it. Like a conveyor belt, Francis and Khang are on fire. The monster truck guy compliments Khang on his last wave. I hate sessions like this, the “off” ones, but I guess we all gotta have them. I’m constantly sitting in the wrong place, or when I avoid the crowd it’s in a spot where it’s not breaking. Meanwhile, I’m watching everyone else going to and from the lineup like their on a gondola. 

     Francis tells me that he’s catching his last one in. When I finally catch a right, all I can do is pump. I’m waiting for the wave to shape-up for a turn, but it doesn’t happen. It’s a long ride but turnless. Francis is by the tower, watching us before he goes. I don’t know if he’s just watching the surf, but I tell myself that he knows I’m sucking this morning, and he’s just being a good friend watching me catch a wave. He does that sometimes. He’ll surprise me the next day and talk about a wave I caught after he already left. 

     The water’s good for other things. It’s brings friends together, and I vent to Khang about my problems at home. He’s studied psychology in college, so he listens attentively. It feels good to get things off my chest. He gives me some advice, and I plan to take it home with me.

     I paddle in when Khang does. He reaches the sand before me, and catching my “last one” is taking forever, so I paddle in, catch some white wash, and do my patented Donny Duckbutter Funky Chicken. I think it’s an awesome surf maneuver, guaranteed to turn a couple heads or at least raise an eyebrow or two.

     Back at the house, Lauren and I have a long talk and reach an understanding. Saving the details, I’m feeling much better now; we both are. I think it will help out my surfing.