LOCAL SCRAPS, WED 01FEB2012 MOR

Crew: Francis & Khang

Time: 0730-0930

Conditions: High to mid tide, 3 feet, onshore, choppy, rip current.

     On Tuesday, Francis sent me a text and said it was two-to-three feet and holding in the morning. With that being said, I told him I’d surf with him the next day. After dropping my sister off at the airport, I cruised to 26^th for a look. On the way there I could see flags blowing onshore, which was a surprise since the wind has been offshore since Thanksgiving. 

     I had to take a shit, so I parked in the metered lots, dropped a log in the public bathroom, and watches the waves. It looked bad. The morning crowd hogged the peak in front of the tower. The waves were crumbly and knocked down from the wind. I should just go home, I thought. Text Francis, apologize for not surfing, explain that the water looked shitty, and then move on with my day. It wasn’t until I actually saw Francis in the water, surfing away from the pack alone, that I felt guilty. I walked to my car wondering what to do, and that’s when Khang pulled up in his van right in front of me. “You paddling out?” I asked.

     “Yeah. It’s onshore, but I thought I saw a couple waves over there.” He motioned towards where I saw Francis.

     We suited up and headed down together. I hit the sand not expecting anything. I was getting wet for the sake of seeing my friends. In between taking a shit and getting in the water, I saw Francis get at least three rides. We joined him and got annoying looks from some other guys in the water. It must have been a frustrating morning for most people. Roy paddled up from the south and talked to the guys. I barely talk to him. Honestly, he called me out in the water years ago. Even though he probably forgot about it; I can’t help it. I’m a grudge holder, and I never forget a face, so when I see him I remember that moment every time.

     I got one decent left the whole morning, that’s all I can really say about this session. It was a spilling wave, and I so happened to be on the shoulder. What felt good was I continued my progress from HB. I got two little turns before the wave flattened out. It was about to connect with an oncoming right, but I lost my balance in the flats. I also got a right, but it closed before it hit the lip. Half of the session was spent fighting the rip. It was weird. The current was sucking out and to the south. I even lost Khang who nearly drifted to Marine before he paddled back. The water was just plain ugly, a disappointment. Meanwhile, I saw Roy pumping down the line, still finding workable corners. He just has this place wired. Even though he’s not my friend, I can’t hate on his surfing.

     I was glad to be in the water. I’ve been reflecting lately about the joy of the ocean. Where do most people spend their leisure time? A lot of people don’t ever make the time to go out and do anything. Surfers are the prime example of opportunists that make the time to enjoy life. We could easily be sleeping in our beds and making excuses. People who don’t surf may not find time to go to the gym, take that hike, go jogging, or take that exercise class. Surfers will always make the time.