MEH…., FRI 06APRIL2012 MOR

    

Crew: Rick & Dave T.

Time: 0700-0800

Conditions: Inconsistent, high tide, small, mooshy, offshore, 2-3 FT.

     After my first duckdive I realize how cold the water is. The sun is out, but it’s not helping. By the third duckdive, the inside of my left ear aches. I pass Dave on the inside. “What’s up, Dave!”

     He nods and smiles.

     Rick catches a left in front of me. We make eye contact on his way back out. Today’s surf is forecasted to be small. It’s the last of the NW swell, and it’s showing. There are scattered peaks, but they crumble a little fast, causing the small shoulders to run away. The longboarders are paddling in early and getting the longest rides.

     It’s not that crowded, and Rick leads us more towards 42^nd. “Matt,” he says. “I’m not really that stoked on this board.” He holds up his new, yellow fish.

     “Well, maybe you just need to take it out on a good day. Like a consistent three feet at Churches.”

     A wave breaks towards the outside, and I’m the only one in position for it. It’s a left, but the section is too fast for me to beat, so I stay behind it the whole time. Most of my rides are fizzling and straight.

     There are a couple gems, in which Rick is recipient to. He comes back after a ride and says, “Matt, that left I got actually held! I got two hits off of it!” He’s always stoked. He also points to the smoke stacks and says that the wind’s changed; it’s blowing off shore now.

     I see the billows of white smoke blowing out to sea, but I don’t see it helping the surf. When 0900 rolls around, Rick and I are on the sand. “Rick, I think I’m gonna call it.”

     “Nah, Matt. You can’t go now. Look, it’s off shore.”

     I look back out at the same waves with the same shape.

     “The swell’s going,” he continues. “This is it.” He shoves his fish in the sand hand heads back. “I got quarters, Matt.”

     Back at the car, I’m done changing into dry clothes. He and Dave are on the sand. I waive at Rick when he turns around. He waves me forward, motioning for me to get my ass back out there. He gets the message. Dave throws me a peace sign, and they both paddle back out. I’ve had my fair share of mediocre days lately, especially after HB’s skunk session. I’d rather handle some things at the house.

     Back in Lawndale, my inflatable mattress I ordered off of Amazon.com arrives. I’m stoked. I let my ex have the bed, and since then I’ve been sleeping on the floor or on my couch—over five weeks. I spend most of the afternoon reorganizing my room. 

Introducing Smokey the dog. He snores louder than I do.

     Later that night, Rick posts on Facebook that the surf got better after I left. I wonder if I made the right call, but every decision can’t be the right one. All I know is that I’m gonna sleep comfortably for the first time in a long time. My next task at hand is bigger: I need to get used to living with myself again.