RARE (double sesh), TUE 17APRIL2012 MOR

Crew: Dais, Klaude, and Rick

Time: 1830-1945

Conditions: High tide, 3 FT with occasional 4, inconsistent, mooshy.

     Rick called me after work and said he might check it out. I told him I might have a look at it but didn’t commit. When I got the text from Dais that he and KK would be paddling out, there was no way I could refuse. Not only have I not seen Dais in a while, but I barely get to surf during the week with Klaude at all. It’s probably been months.

     I park south of the bathrooms and can’t get into my wetsuit fast enough. Even though the conditions aren’t pristine, there’s just something about warm, sunny, California weather that makes a surfer paddle out regardless, especially with the sun so low on the horizon. Even though I just ate five tacos at the house, I paddle out on a full stomach and meet Dais in the water. We catch up a little. He tells me that Khang’s knee is getting better and that he’s working again, able to walk but in pain.

     Klaude’s towards the inside where it’s more consistent. When he joins us, I tell them that I’ve been doing much better. For some reason, I’ve made some major progress in getting over the breakup. After a recent get together, I’ve realized how blessed I am to have so many friends that give a shit about me and also the many blessings I have ahead after getting accepted into the MFA program. I’ve got over a serious hump. Maybe Pabs and Klaude were right: surf, surf, surf as much as possible!

     Rick sneaks up on us, and now we’re four deep. Unfortunately for me, I struggle to catch anything, while everyone else is getting rides. Dais gets a wave that reforms on the inside, Klaude gets one of the set waves all the way to shore that I completely miss, and Rick . . . he always gets waves.

    

     I finally find myself alone and in position for my wave of the day. Since the waves are mooshy, I try to catch them late. As I’m paddling into it, the lip sends me down faster than expected. I hug the face and turn into the wave to ensure that I make the section. My hand drifts in the face, I lose balance, and I fall forward into it. I resurface, pissed off at myself. A guy down the line backed out because he thought I was on it. I use that negative energy to catch another one, but nothing comes my way, or if it does, there are too many heads in competition for it. 

     Klaude leaves first, then Dais, and then Rick and I surf until it’s dark. Even though I didn’t have a good session, it was nice surfing with the fellas. I also feel fortunate to live somewhere where I can surf until the sun goes down.